Sunday, February 17, 2019

Orlando (Feb) Ft. Myers/Naples/Cruise/Miami (Mar) Camp Nelson,Vicksburg,Medgar Evers, Cahokia,Tubman, Hopewell, Poe, Kosciuszko,First State, Great Egg,Gettysburg,USAWC, Manassas,Fredericksburg-Spotsylvania, Langley, Petersburg,Reconstruction, Orlando (Nov),Freedom Riders, Mill Springs, Perryville Added New River & Tule Lake

FEBRUARY 6, 2019
WEATHER:   COLD & SLEETING & ICY in Milwaukee;  82 in Orlando, Florida
SUNSET: 1808  Orlando, FL

TRAVEL:  MKE-DTW-MCO    Rental car in Orlando; checked into Holiday Inn Vacation Club – Orange Lake Resort.  Located in Kissimmee, this is real close to Disney – in fact the property borders on Disney’s Animal Kingdom property.  A 6-8 mile drive - depending on traffic, a 15 – 25 minute drive to a Disney park. .              

Orange Lake
Resort
Island View
Village

Disney Springs
Holiday Inn Vacation Club – Orange Lake Resort:  – checked into the Island View area  - staying in a 1 bedroom affair with a king bed, living room, patio, kitchen & bathEnd of the building unit with a great view of the lazy river – except that it is still undergoing refurbishing, I knew that when I made the reservation.  Otherwise a nice room here for 4 nights.

DISNEY SPRINGS – drove over to Disney Springs – no charge for parking here, bought a 4 Day Disney Park Hopper with the Military Discount. 



Stopped at a nearby PUBLIX  for groceries and had dinner at Miller’s Ale House – this is a local chain – just had a burger & beer at the bar – good.

Adventures on the ICE AGE TRAIL will be on separate posts for 2019




FEBRUARY 7, 2019
WEATHER:  low  of 58 – high of 81 sunny
SUNRISE: 0709 SUNSET: 1809  Orlando, FL

TRAVEL:  Orange Lake Resort  to Disney’s Hollywood Studios..

HOLIDAY INN VACATION CLUB – Orange Lake Resort :   when I checked in I was offered a 1 hour Owner’s Update - $100 cash if I attended – at first I said ‘no thank you’ – then figured for $100 . . Well, the 1 hour  turned into 2 ½ hours  - the world did not come to an end – but time share sales people are pushy  - they just don’t know when to give up  - - - I did not have a good experience with a HIVC sales person in Scottsdale last Fall and there’s no way I’m going to upgrade.  I did get $100 cash for being nice and listening.

Hollywood Studios
Entrance
HOLLYWOOD STUDIOS
Not my first visit here – but my first visit to the Parking Lot – Cost $25 including Tax

BOTTOM LINE UP FRONT:  Alone I saw a lot in 6 hours time – the Park was not that crowded.  Toy Story Land just opened and that appeared to be the busiest place.  The KEY - not my first visit, knew where to go, walk not gawk, no character lines to
wait in and I did the 3 Fast Pass -  the max number.






Star Wars: Galaxy Far, Far Away
 15 minute show at center stage
Indiana Jones
 Epic Stunt Spectacular
 -
 a short version of the movie with plenty
of stunts - it assumes you've seen the movie














A Frozen Sing Along Celebration



\





"For the First Time In Forever" - A Frozen Sing Along Celebration
of course it snows at the end of the performance
“For the First Time in Forever:” A Frozen Sing Along Celebration – seen this before – the music never fails to bring a tear to my eye

Star Wars: Path of the Jedi – a saga film experience that includes footage from Star Wars films

Lunch on the patio of the
Hollywood Brown Derby
Rock & Roller Coaster:  Starring Aerosmith – just as I remembered this coaster bounces your head around a lot – and the music is loud.Salad and a glass for Chardonnay at the Hollywood Brown Derby – outdoor seating and watched the March of the First Order.
Beauty and the Beast – Live On Stage 
 there is some good music in this
 show that I had forgotten




Star Wars
Star Tours - "The
Adventure Continues"
Twilight Zone
Tower of Terror 
can you hum that tune
Toy Story Land
Entrance


Star Tours – The Adventure Continues – experienced this ride first when I was in Vegas some years ago at what was then the Hilton – next to the Convention Center – for a NGAUS Conference.  C3PO still hasn't been programmed to be a pilot.

A walk through Toy Story Land – nothing here of interest  to me - except perhaps the Slinky Dog Dash – coaster with a very long wait line

Walt Disney Presents – Walt’s creative legacy through a fascinating multimedia journey and preview of concept art and models of park additions.
  
Dinner at Black Angus Steak House – got a seat immediately - sat the bar – food was reasonably priced – not top quality, which would have cost twice as much.



FEBRUARY 8, 2019
WEATHER:  low  of 58 – high of 80 sunny
SUNRISE: 0708 SUNSET: 1811  Orlando, FL

TRAVEL Orange Lake Resort to Disney’s Animal Kingdom – Disney bus transportation to and from the Disney’s Magic Kingdom and back to Orange Lake Resort..

ANIMAL KINGDOM
Animal Kingdom Entrance
Avatar Flight of Passage

Parking was $25.  The goal was to get hear early in order to get in a queue for the Avatar Flight of Passage and Na’vi River Journey.  I had been on the River Journey before but not on Avatar – lines are always extremely long.  I got into the park around 8:30 am and walked immediately to Avatar Flight of Passage. .

Na'vi River Journey
Avatar Flight of Passage – the line was long  - it indicated a 90 minute wait but actually only took about 50 minutes.  In my opinion, the BEST RIDE IN ANY DISNEY PARK.  From the minute they start priming you though your experience of riding a Banshee it’s another 20 minutes.  Well worth the wait.  Get a FAST PASS if you can – but they are tough to come by..

Na’vi River Journey – a bioluminescent rain forest  - this took about 45 minutes in a line to get on the boat ride.

Came off the Na’vi River Journey ride just in time to see the Pandora Drummers


DISNEY TRANSPORTATION – bus from ANIMAL KINGDOM to MAGIC KINGDOM


MAGIC KINGDOM
Disney Magic Kingdom Entracne - Train Station



Arrived on Main Street around 11:30 am and of course there was a parade – The Move It! Shake It! MousekeDance It! Street Party.  Another successful day  afternoon – saw 7 attractions, 3 parades, had lunch and did shopping in 5 hours.- all entirely to the west side of the Fantasyland Cinderella Castle  .  

It's A Small World
I did not Fast Pass Mickey’s Magic Philharmonic but got in right away for the 3D show – enjoyable.

I decided to get in line for Peter Pan’s Flight – the wait was 45 minutes.  It was just about a 50+ minute wait for a 4 minute ride through Peter Pan’s world.

Haunted Mansion
The “It’s a Small World ” Fast Pass expired at 1250 – I made it in with just a minute to spare. – catchy tune.


I had a 1305 Fast Pass for the Haunted Mansion and got immediately on after It’s A Small World”



Lunch of a Tuna Salad sandwich, home-made chips and a Coke at the Columbia Harbor House. I ate at an outside table.  I tried to be seated at The Diamond Horseshoe, but without a reservation there was an hour wait.

Hall of the Presidents

Disney Transportation took me back to Animal Kingdom.  I had planned to stay around and perhaps see 1900 Rivers of Light show at Animal Kingdom but I was tired and headed back the resort.


FEBRUARY 9, 2019 Saturday
WEATHER:   mostly sunny – high of 72 – turned cloudy around noon –it was supposed to rain by 3 – never rained but got cool and windy 
SUNRISE: 0708 SUNSET: 1811  Orlando, FL

TRAVEL:  Plans are to stay around the resort today – Disney Springs,  Mass and dinner at the end of the day.

Orange Lake Resort – started out with a 6 mile walk with stops at West Village Fitness Center; Arcade, Pool, Beach and Marketplace – North village pool.

There are 4 golf courses here.  Costs vary by time of play:  7am-12:59pm//1pm-2:59pm/ 3pm to close.

The Legends has 5 sets of tees. 
The Legends Golf Course
Teal 74.3/132 7072 yds      Black 72.0/129 6665 yds               Blue 70.3/124 6263yds
 White 67.8/121 5780 yds               Yellow 69.6/120 5188 yds
This course has a separate pro shop facility and a real score card.
Located in East Village.  No GPS on carts
February member prices $75/$59/$39.  Rental clubs are $50.

The Reserve has 3 sets of tees. 
Teal 71.8/137 6505 yds      White 69.4/128 6031 yds                Yellow 68.3/118 5119 yds
The pro shop is located in the West Village Marketplace.  No GPS on carts
February member prices $50/$42/$30.  Rental clubs are $29. 

Cranes Bend is a 9 Hole Executive Course with 3 sets of tees 
Teal 30.0/106 1901 yds      White 29.1/94 1667 yds                  Yellow 28.4/92 1342 yds
The pro shop is located in the West Village Marketplace.
February member prices $28/$20/$20.  Rental clubs are $15.

The Legends Walk is located in North Village.. 
Teal 71.8/137 6505 yds      White 69.4/128 6031 yds                Yellow 68.3/118 5119 yds
This course is located in North Village..
February member prices $20/$15/$20.  Rental clubs are $10
Kids golf FREE everyday at Legends Walk.

There is also a lit 9 hole course open until 11 pm located in North Village and a lit range open until 10 pm located in West Village.


DISNEY SPRINGS – drove to Disney Springs – free parking in the ramp – stopped by the check out the following Hilton properties – Doubltree Suites  -  Buena Vista Palace  -  Lake Buena Vista.  Determined  they may not be a good place to stay in November using Hilton Honors Points.  All charge extra daily parking fees.  All are “Disney” partner hotels with Disney Transportation.


St. Faustina Catholic Church
the end of a strip mall
Inside - St. Fautina's
Catholic Church
MASS at 4pm St. Faustina1714 US 21, Claremont, FL.. A storefront church . . . . . . while funds are being raised for a new church – this church occupies the end of a strip mall.  An Irish pastor . . .  no surprise there – probably good at raising money from ‘snow birds.’  The 4 pm mass was SRO – probably the only parishioners were the ushers and even they were above 60 – maybe 10 people total in the crowd under 60.  Even so a one hour service, readings covered Isaiah, Paul and the gospel where the apostles catch more than a boatload of fish – Peter, Isaiah and Paul all admit their unworthiness are humans in a divine presence..

Eventually went back to Orange Lake Resort and had a dinner at Breezes.  A drive-by Texas Roadhouse had people waiting outside – a stop by  Applebee’s  and after sitting at the bar and no service – I left – something about Applebee’s  . . .seems they are on the decline – especially in the Orlando area – service is all but non-existent and the quality of the food is uneven.




FEBRUARY 10, 2019 Sunday
WEATHER:   66 degrees – cloudy and rainy at 7 am – forecast high of 75 with clearing by 6 pm                SUNRISE: 0707 SUNSET: 1812  Orlando, FL

TRAVEL:  Orange Lake Resort to Tavares, FL; back to Orlando and check in at the Hilton Grand Vacations (HGVC) Parc Soleil.

Visited with relatives in Tavares  – less than an hour drive from Orlando and Deland – about an hour from Tavares


Studio - Parc Soleil
Parc Soleil
Hilton Grand Vacation Club – Parc Soleil -  checked into a large Studio that exceeded my expectations.  The Parc  Soleil complex consists of two towers with enclosed parking garages.  I had a room on the top floor (15th) of tower two (Rm 21515).\
Parc Soleil
view of the pool
from the 9th floor


The floor is brown wood grain laminate, king bed, table, 2 chairs, dresser, tv, a small kitchen with sink, counter, cabinets, flatware, cups, plates, bowls, cups glasses for two, toaster, coffee maker . . . . more than adequate for my needs.  WIFI works.  Now I’ve stayed at 3 Hilton time share properties in the Orlando Hilton SeaWorld, Hilton Tuscany Village; Hilton Parc Soleil.  The only property I haven’t stayed at is Hilton’s Las Palmeras.





FEBRUARY 11, 2019 Monday
WEATHER:   64 degrees at 6:30 am mostly sunny; high of 80, 75 at 9 pm – a great day
SUNRISE: 0707 SUNSET: 1812  Orlando, FL

TRAVEL:  Parc Soleil to EPCOT (a 10 mile – 20 minute  drive); Monorail to Disney Transportation Center  – transfer to Express Monorail to Magic Kingdom and return to EPCOT

EPCOT - Experimental Prototype Community Of Tomorrow

EPCOT Entrance
FROZEN in Norway
Getting to EPCOT early – they really don’t open until 9 am . . . limited availability i.e. World Showcase does not open until 11 pm.  EPCOT is a lot of walking . . . . but again I saw almost all of the attractions . . .  .

Additionally, EPCOT was hosting an International Festival of the Arts  . . .  a lot of additional vendors, acts, workshops and artists available for those with an interest.




World Showcase not open yet
Walked into Innovations (Future World East) there was nobody in the place – Like Discovery World, a hands-on experimentation place for kids.

Walked through Mexico (not open yet) to get to Norway and Frozen Ever After – the Fast Pass on this boat ride sells out quickly – I think the Frozen show in Hollywood Studios is 10x better.  There was a 35 minute wait – it was early – the lines get much longer later..


The Land - home
to Soarin'
Fast Track - that's my car design
Walked back to Living With The Land (Future World West) and got in a 40 minute line for Soarin Around the World – a great ride – the floor disappears beneath you as you soar around the world .

A fast walk back to Future World East and Test Track – Presented by Chevrolet (Fast Pass 0950).  I got there just before the Fast Pass expired at 1050.  I had forgotten that you build/design your vehicle – a great ride. Lots of hands-on activities that you can test you design car  on after the Test Track.. 

The Seas

Walked back to The Seas (Fast Pass 1050) in Future World West and almost immediately got on board a clam-mobile for an adventure with Nemo and friends.
Crush --- in The Seas
I had short waits to get in Journey Into Imagination With Figment – another hands-on like Discovery World activity when the ride is over.


Journey Into The
Imagination

Disney & PIXAR Short Film Festival
In the theater that long ago housed Michael Jackson’s Captain EO film now showcases the Disney and Pixar Short Film Festival.  A collection of 3 short films with added 3D effects. Three good cartoons.  




Mission Space
A walk back to Future World East to get on Misssion:Space (Fast Pass 1235).  I don’t remember being on this flight simulator.  You can “train” as an astronaut on the green Earth Mission or the more strenuous orange Mars. Mission.  You experience G forces – acceleration – deceleration  – as part of a 4 member crew  - - - -  don’t know how they do that?  A good ride.

Back to the entrance and got in a 30 minute line for Spaceship Earth – a slow moving ride tracing human history and invention.

Walked to Mexico and almost immediately got on the Grand Fiesta Tour Starring The Three Caballeros – another one of those slow boat rides.



Snack of pot-lickers and Tsing Tao in China.

Didn’t walk far and decided to have a bratwurst and Beck’s Pilsner in Germany.

Japanese Taiko Drummers



The American Adventure




It was a warm afternoon – I figured I would be unable to drink and eat my way through the remaining 7 countries. I decided to watch the Japanese Taiko Drummers; attend The American Adventure a 30-40 minute show and watch a live performance of the Disney On Broadway Concert Series. 



Disney On Broadway

Disney On Broadway
Disney On Broadway

The Broadway show started at 1730 and featured Ashley Brown and Josh Strickland.  Brown played Mary Poppins and Belle on Broadway.  Strickland starred in Tarzan.  Togther they sang songs from Aida, Frozen, Newsies, Mary Poppins, Sleeping Beauty, Lion King, Tarzan and perhaps a few others..

MAGIC KINGDOM

Cinderella Castle

Splash Mountain
Brer Rabbit & the
Briar Patch
After I completed the 3 Fast Pass reservations I was able to make one additional Fast Pass for Splash Mountain (Fast Pass 1920).  A great ride with Brer’ Bear, Brer; Fox and Brer’ Rabbit.  Disney’s "Song of the South" is live action and animaton telling the Uncle Remus stories.  Released in 1946 it is probably not considered politically correct today . . . . but it did have some good music  - like the memorable Zip-a-Dee-Do- Dah - and some good folk tale stories.  It was 75 degrees – I did get wet – but not soaked.


Left the park but still saw the Happily Ever After Fireworks as I waited, transferred and rode the monorail back to EPCOT parking.


FEBRUARY 12, 2019 Tuesday
WEATHER:    71 and cloudy at 6:30 am; a high of 80 mostly cloudy until it poured for 15 minutes at 4pm – partial clearing after        SUNRISE: 0707  SUNSET: 1812  Orlando, FL

TRAVEL:  Parc Soleil   Orlando Area

Hilton Grand Vacations - BEWARE of EDGAR VELEZ- time share salesman - a fast talker – a double talker – but boy -  is he good!  At any rate his actions caused me to lose a vacation day here in Orlando  - a $50  American Express Gift card did not make up for the lost time . . . . I am way too patient.   Why Do I Do Things Like That?

However, it probably worked out – rained poured hard between 4 and 4:15 pm then the sun came out.  It would have been miserable at Animal Kingdom and recovery would not have been fast . . . . .

Late Lunch/Early Dinner at Miller’s Ale House on International Drive – 3 16 oz beers and an order of fish and chips for $13.84 – can’t get that in Wisconsin . . .  .

This is what I missed:
ANIMAL KINGDOM
1100  Festival of the Lion King
1200 UP! A Great Bird Adventure
Everest Expedition (Fast Pass 1200)
Dinosaur (Fast Pass 1330)
1430 Finding Nemo – The Musical
1605 Pocahantas
Its Tough To Be A Bug
African Safari (Fast 1710)
1900 Rivers of Light – a nighttime water show on the Discovery River that combines Disney nature footage and an original scorel

FEBRUARY 13, 2019 Wednesday 
WEATHER:   mostly cloudy – high of 72
SUNRISE: 0708   Orlando, FL

TRAVEL:   MCO-ATL-MKE  lots of snow on the ground when I returned



MARCH 18, 2019 Monday
 WEATHER:   warm and mostly cloudy in Florida
SUNRISE: 0708   Milwaukee, WI   SUNSET: 1937 Fort Myers, FL

TRAVEL:   MKE-ATL-Fort Lauderdale    Drive to Fort Myers across Alligator Alley (I-75)

Stayed with relatives



MARCH 19, 2019 Tuesday

WEATHER:   rain until 2 pm - high of 60 - cloudy
SUNRISE: 0732 SUNSET: 1938 Fort Myers, FL

TRAVEL:   Fort Myers area

Rain most of the day cancelled Golf at Shadow Wood CC.

Golf Galaxy – Dick’s Sporting Goods - Lunch at English Pub – Dinner at Luigina’s.  



MARCH 20, 2019 Wednesday

WEATHER:  cool and cloudy in the am, high of 78 and became partly cloudy in the afternoon
SUNRISE: 0730 Fort Myers, FL             SUNSET: 1939 Naples, FL

TRAVEL:   Fort Myers, FL Big Cypress National Preserve to Everglades National Park to Naples, FL.   

Hampton Innlocated in Naples just east of Tamiami Dr – between Hwy 41 and I-75.  An older – refurbished hotel.  Nice but the lime green hallways are just a bit much – reminded me of a hospital.  WIFI works.

163 BIG CYPRESS NATIONAL PRESERVE,
Big Cypress National Preserve - Welcome Center
FL
 I last visited here 21-27 JAN 2015, not much has changed.  Big Cypress National Preserve is mostly adjacent to Everglades National Park on the south and east.  I did visit Big Cypress Swamp Visitor Center and the Oasis Visitor Center on Tamiami Trail East (US 41). 

The Preserve is open all year except Christmas.  Rangers lead programs here December through April.  There is no admission charge.  If I return, the canoe trips look like fun.  If you have an ATV, there are plenty of trails to explore as well at trails to hike


Map - Big Cyrpess National Preserve - Everglades National Park

Big Cypress National Preserve - Oasis Visitor Center

Ochopee Post Office 





Ochopee Post Office
on Hwy 41















162 EVERGLADES NATIONAL PARK, FL
Everglades National Park
Shark Valley Visitor Center on US 41
I last visited here 21-27 JAN 2015, not much had changed.  Admission to the park is $30.  I forgot my Lifetime Senior Pass (which cost me $10 six years ago) so I purchased an Annual Senior Pass for $20.  I visited the Shark Valley Visitor Center.  There is a lot to do here but it was late in the day and I didn’t have a reservation for the Tram Tour and didn’t feel like walking the 7 mile trail or renting a bike and taking 14 mile bike path..



There are 4 Visitor Centers in Everglades National Park and I’ve said that it is my most favorite National Park to visit – east of the Mississippi – because it is huge – it has diversity – and there is a lot to do.  I spent over a week in the area.  Biscayne National Monument is along the Atlantic south of Miami and a drive to Key West will provide boat access to Dry Tortugas National Monument.  

Everglades National Park - Shark Valley - Sea of Grass

Everglades National Park is a collage of habitiats.  Water, elevation, fire and hurricanes are major influences on the health of the Everglades.

they're everywhere
Marine and Estuarine waters extend from the Ten Thousand Islands to Florida Bay.  Seagrass beds lie beneath these waters providing critical food, water and shelter for marine life.

Mangroves are found in coastal channels, in rivers and along canals where fresh and saltwater mingle.  Forests stabilize costal lands, sustain nurseries for marine life and provide nesting for wading birds.

The Everglades Freshwater Marsh is a wide shallow, slow moving “sea of grass.”  Two major drainages – the broad Shark River Slough (pronounced slew) and the narrow Taylor Slough and the main avenues for freshwater flow.

Cypress trees thrive in flooded conditions.  Cypress forests often grow in the shape of a dome, with taller trees in the center of the dome or in a linear “strand” where tree growth follows the flow of water.  Cypress live as long as 600 years – logging was stopped in around 1960.

Pine Rockland is the rarest and most diverse habitat in the Everglades, occurring at the highest elevations along a limestone ridge on the east coast of Florida. 


Tropical Hardwood Hammocks are dense island forests growing on elevated land that rarely floods.  Live oak, tropical mahogany, gumbo-limbo mastic – ferns and air plants thrive here.  Natural moats around hammocks protect them from fire. 


MARCH 21, 2019 Thursday

WEATHER:   63 at 0730, clear and sunny high of 75
SUNRISE: 0730             SUNSET: 1939 Naples, FL

TRAVEL:   Naples to Marco Island, to Everglades City to Everglades Gulf Coast VC to Naples


Hilton
Marco Island
Gulf of Mexico Beach in front of Hilton on Marco Island
I visited the Hilton Resort & Spa on Marco Island.  Nothing special about Marco Island except that it’s on the Gulf of Mexico and just about every lot has a canal behind it leading to the Gulf  – expensive and prone to hurricane damage -  OK,  now I can say that I’ve been there.


Everglades National Park - Gulf Coast VC
162 EVERGLADES NATIONAL PARK, FL
Gulf Coast Visitor Center – I’ve been here before  . . .  . Hurricane Irma destroyed the Visitor Center last year – it was the second floor of a maintenance building – not much larger than a trailer - in my opinion, not a loss, and you don’t have to walk up to the second floor  – the Park Service set up a Contact Station in a mobile trailer.  A concessionaire still offers canoes, kayaks and boat rides out into the Gulf.

Everglades Gulf Coast 





Lunch at Old Naples American Sports Bar – great food – reasonably priced – a special  every day – today was an 8” pizza for $4.98 – the 2 16 oz beers cost more than the pizza.  Enough left over for dinner.

Back to the Hampton Inn – sat out by the pool for about 35 minutes - the sun is hot.

Marquette 83    Murray State  64   - in the first round of the NCAA Basketball Tournament. – Marquette did not play well – Murray obviously did.  Marquette was seeded 5th Murray 12th..




MARCH 22, 2019 Friday
WEATHER:   nice 70’s – 80’s clear
SUNRISE: 0728             SUNSET: 1939 Naples, FL

TRAVEL:   Naples, FL area

Stay with relatives

Dinner at Pincher’s Crab Shack


MARCH 23, 2019 Saturday
WEATHER:  a nice day – sunny – high in mid 70’s
SUNRISE: 0727 Naples, FL       SUNSET: 1933 Fort Lauderdale, FL

TRAVEL:   Naples area

Stay with relatives

Mass at St. Ann’s in Naples.  Average Sunday collection here, as published in the bulletin is around $35,000.

Dinner at Texas Tony’s Rib & Brewhouse

MARCH 24, 2019 Sunday
WEATHER:  70’partly cloudy to mostly cloudy by afternoon
SUNRISE: 0708             SUNSET: xxxx Fort Lauderdale,  FL

TRAVEL:   Naples to Fort Lauderdale FL  Turn in the rental car at FLL  Cab to Port Everglades $20 with tip.

HOLLAND AMERICA Cruise Lines. A new ship called the Nieuw Statendam first sailing was mid-season last year.  First blackout was yesterday morning – the ship lost all electrical power – it still had emergency power but was without power for awhile.





This is the one of the largest in the Holland America fleet.  The room I have is larger than on any cruise I’ve been on yet.  Plenty of TV channels, movies on demand, etc.  Typical cruise lots of activities, shore excursions, 2 pools, bars, restaurants, sports facilities, exercise and spa.


Officers & Crew:      988
Captain:                   Noel O’Driscoll
Possbile Guests:     2,666
Length:                     975 ft as long as 12 blue whales
Maiden Voyage:       2018

Music Venues:       Rolling Stone Rock Room, BB Kings Blues Room, Lincoln  Center Stage, Billboard Onboard
Yes, there is a Casino and a World Stage featuring dancers, a magician & a comedian

A comfortable ship.  More families on this than in the past – spring break may offer more opportunity than cruises in February .  This is a larger ship for Holland America  - but  still it doesn’t seem crowded.   

Ports Call - Port Evergaldes (Fort Lauderdale); Half Moon Cay (Bahamas); Ocho Rios (Jamaica); Georgetown (Cayman Islands - British Weest Indies); Cozumel (Mexico)
My stateroom is located on Deck 1 #1050 port side - more spacious than any previous
Comfortable Stateroomn
accommodations, on any ship.  There are no “obstructed view” rooms on this ship.

This ship has more room on Decks 2 & 3 dedicated to lounges and restaurants. 

A recent movie is shown on a very large screen on Deck 9 in the forward Lido Pool & Bar.  Same movies and more are available in the room on the TV.

Mass is said every day in the Hudson and Half-Moon Rooms.

The outside Promenade Deck is not as wide as other ships I’ve been on.

The Emergency Muster Drill/Stations are not located near the lifeboats on deck.  They are in the wide lounges on Decks 2 and 3.

Tonight’s dining room menu was not enticing – I had a shrimp cocktail, prime rib, potatoes, and green beans at the Lido Market (a cafeteria style line) on Deck 9


MARCH 25, 2019 Monday
WEATHER:  73 cloudy, rain squalls at 0645

TRAVEL:   Half-Moon Cay, Bahamas  - a private island for Holland America offering a white sandy beach and a wide range of water sports, snorkeling, catamaran sailing, and rental of private cabanas on the beach.  I settled for a “Historic Nature Walk.”
ARRIVAL      0900
ON-BOARD  1630

0700 walked 2 miles on the Promenade Deck (equal to 6 times around the ship)
1015 Half-Moon Cay -Historic Nature Walk – a leisurely 1 ½ hour walk on the island with a guide. 



Lunch on the island – included
Half Moon Cay - sting rays 
by Holland America.

On Board Activities.
1400 Footprint Analysis in the Spa Deck 9 – purchased a pair of insoles – get to wear them until Wednesday 6 pm – if they don’t make a difference - refund
1600 Happy Hour – BillBoard Onboard Deck 2 – met a guy looking like  Santa who has been sailing for 5 weeks
1715 Gala Night dinner  with 7 people from Tucson, New Berlin, Sheboygan, Naples one person has been sailing for 8 weeks
1845 Lincoln Center Stage – Women In Music – listened to 2 pieces
1915 Officers On Deck – a welcome aboard glass of champagne toast to safe travels   
2000 World Stage Performance – StepONE Dance Company’s HUMANITY  - nice the dancers worked hard
2100 BB Kings – very good band, met the comic who will perform on Thrusday/Friday


MARCH 26, 2019 Tuesday
WEATHER:  74 clear and sunny at 0545; high of 83 calm seas

TRAVEL:  At Sea
Ships clocks set back 1 hour to CENTRAL Daylight TIME

On Board Activities
0630 walked 2.33 miles on the Promenade Deck (equal to 7 times around the ship)
0800 Mass in the Half Moon & Hudson Rooms –‘forgiveness’
1000 Shore Excursions
Lincoln Center State - piano quintet
a daily shot of entertainment
1230 Lincoln Center Stage MatineeBernstein to Buble – piano, viola, cello, 2 violins – a wonderful 40 minute program of West Side Story, tangos from Argentina, Puerto Rican rhythms, French songs, and Dave Brubeck jazz
1400 sighted Cuba, 5 miles off the starboard side of the ship
1800 Lincoln Center Stage – I thought I was going to listen to the Based On Bach program – but that was at 1700 – so with a glass of Johnny Walker Black, I listened to the Bernstein to Buble program again
2000 Dinner – Main Dinding Room – my scheduled table – met a group of academics from Canada living in the US and a couple from Michigan (Jerry & Bobbi), a sixth (John Paul) still did not attend.  All were cruisers – the older academic dominated conversation about travels.  I fear we have little in common.
2130 Rolling Stone Rock Room – lead, rhythm, bass guitars, drummer and keyboards. Excellent vocals and harmonies.   Played a bit of everything very well.  Steve Miller, Eagles . . . . the lead guitarist was outstanding.  



MARCH 27, 2019 Wednesday
WEATHER:  77 clear and sunny when we docked in Ocho Rios; 79 cloudy and 100% humidity at 1330

TRAVEL:   Ocho Rios, Jamiaca
ARRIVAL      0800
ON-BOARD  1630

0630 walked 3.00  miles on the Promenade Deck (equal to 9 times around the ship)
John Crow's Taven
Ocho Rios, Jamaica
the panhandlers know what a fence
is for

1115 – 1330 Ocho Rios, Jamaica – found the Harley-Davison dealership – very friendly; directed me to the Jamaican Post Office - $4  for 4 post card Bob Marley stamps

Plenty of pan-handlers – only approached by one person who asked  - “Want some weed?”

I did find the Post Office, wrote and mailed post cards – dropped them in what appeared to be an unsecured large plywood box that apparently was the drop box. We’ll see. . . .

Found some quiet at a bar called John Crow’s Tavern.   Drank a Red Stripe ($3.50) and wrote the post cards at the bar. Never did find Jimmy Buffet’s bar.

On Board Activities.
1600 Happy Houra double Johnny Walker Black lasted 3 hours
1800 Lincoln Center Stage - Masterworks by Dvorak
1900 Lincoln Center Stage – Movie Classics – from Forrest Gump to  “Windmills of Your Mind” (The Thomas Crown Affair” to Poltergeist, Psycho, Schindlers List and the Star Wars Cantina song.

A medical emergency on-board required a stop at Montego Bay, Jamaica to disembark one passenger around 2030. Somehow I don’t think I would want to get that bill


MARCH 28, 2019 Thursday
WEATHER:  72 cloudy with rain at 0600;

TRAVEL:   George Town, Grand Cayman Island – British West Indies

Georgetown, Grand Cayman Island - tenders transferred passengers from the
Nieuw Statenda
m to the dock

ARRIVAL   0800   travel via tender – some concern about ocean swells that subsided enough fro us to visit.  Three ships arriving an hour earlier were diverted to the other side of the island.
ON-BOARD  1530

0815 George Town, Grand Cayman Island “A Taste of Cayman.”  The tour promised a visit to the Cayman Islands Brewery and Seven Fathoms Rum distillery.  However, due to a visit by Prince Charles and Duchess Camilla, the brewery is closed for the day  Instead the tour operator offered a stop at the rock formation “Hell” and a longer stay at the distillery and a 25% discount..  The tour was cancelled at 0830.

Went into town – 100x better than Ocho Rios.  However, the Post Office closed.  A “holiday” or “holy day” to some, because of the Royal Visit.  No brewery tour but did find a good bar with WIFI.  The Harley Davidson delaer did offer to mail my post cards – let’s see when they arrive.


Local brew and very reliable WIFI
On Board Activities.
1600 Happy Hourbought a Miller Lite for today and one for later
1800 Lincoln Center Stage – Masterworks by Schumann – a solo piano piece and a piano quintet
1900 Lincoln Center Stage -  Piaf to Peanuts – the cabaret, to Argentina, to the most famous Charlie Brown musician Schroeder – Bach and “Linus and Lucy” to McCartney’s “Blackbird” and Zeppelin’s “Stairway to Heaven”, concluding with Queen’s “Bohemian Rhapsody”
2000 Dining Room – Gala Attire  again met the same guests – still unable to hardly get a word in edgewise – dinner was tasty – elegant but something missing in the shrimp cocktail, pumpkin soup and surf & turf – just coffee little room for dessert.  The mysterious John Paul did not attend..



MARCH 29, 2019 Friday
WEATHER:   77 and cloudy at 0630

TRAVEL:   Cozumel, Mexico
ARRIVAL      1100
ON-BOARD  1030
If this were a Canival Cruise – plenty of time for people to get in trouble

Met Florin in the Spa – the Goodfeet representative - -told him about the ‘cutting’ the arch support was doing to my right instep – he said try for one more day – hour on – hour off - - - sure . . .  . ‘like new shoes you have to break them in’ – I wouldn’t think this true of arch supports . . .  we’ll see

The Captain indicated 5 ships in port – there are at least 3 docks I saw 4 ships.  The docks support most of the shops – no real need to travel downtown like previous visits.  Unable to find anyone who sold stamps for postcards – only the Post Office wherever that was.

1215 San Gervasio Mayan Archeological Site & Beach (4.5 his) – An ancient Mayan temple dedicated to Ixchel, goddess of the moon and fertility. Sand Gervasiso is not the original name of the temple.  After the Mayan conquest it sat alone and forgotten by the Spanish settlers for over 400 years – not sure about the story but someone with the name  of Gervasio owned the land – rediscovered after a plane crash in WW II – the archeologists excavated the site.  Somehow, like San Miguel – the site became San Gervasio?

San Gervasio - Mayan runins

Mariachis at the
Beach Club
Vist  to a beach club near Chakanuub National Park.  A small private beach club with chairs, snorkels, shops, restaurant and bar.  WIFI promised to be  available was not..  A quick connect and it shut down my phone – go figure.

1700 Returned to the Docks.  The docks are walled – amazing – probably not to keep the Americans in but the caravan’s out. 

Jimmy Buffet’s  Margaritaville – right on the docks – a state of mind.  Of course I had a margarita.






On Board Activities.
0630 walked 3.00 miles on the Promenade Deck (equal to 9 times around the ship)
0800 Mass in the Half Moon & Hudson Rooms
0830 Dining Room Breakfast with a couple from Boston (lobster fisherman) Dave & Wendy), a couple from Iowa living on the West Coast of Florida above Tampa (Joyce & Gary), and a retired  salesman of water treatment products (Tony)

1000 Win A Cruise Bingo- World Stage 2 & 3 - What did I have to lose? Answer:  $35.
1930 Folkorico Mexico – a good Mariachi Band – under the sky on the Lido Deck with the canopy over the forward pool open.  Pizza for dinner – not very hungry.




MARCH 30, 2019 Saturday
WEATHER:   76 and clear at 0730 – back on EDT
Clocks were set ahead one hour to EDT

TRAVEL:  At Sea

Met Florin in the Spa – the Goodfeet representative - -told him about the ‘cutting’ the arch support was doing to my right instep – he said try for one more day – hour on – hour off - - - sure . . .  . ‘like new shoes you have to break them in’ – I wouldn’t think this true of arch supports . . .  we’ll see

On Board Activities.
1000 Ask the Captain – World Stage 2 & 3 - a virtual tour of the Nieuw Statendam’s bridge and engine room 

Ever since I attempted to connect to WIFI on shore at the private beach club . . . my phone has displayed the message Unfortunately, the process the process com.android has stopped.     Bottom Line – the phone will only shut off and turn on – nothing else works.   I’ve tried everything except doing a Factory Reset (which appears to delete all data)   can’t figure out how to backup the phone to my pc.  The IT guy on board has the personality of a dead fish – and is of little or no assistance – a course in communication could help – he belongs in the water not on board - I’m getting frustrated.. It may be time for a new phone but I  will be lost without my phone.

1230 Lincoln Center Stage Matinee – All American A toe tapping opening “Hoedown” from Copland’s Rodeo followed by Brubeck’s “Rondo A la Turk” and Bernstein’s opening prologue to West Side Story.  Ella Fizgerald’s classic “Dream a Little Dream of Me” or was that Cass Elliot?.  Dave Matthews found his way into the program with the “Ants Go Marching”.  Another Copland – as expected the final movement (Simple Gifts) from Appalachian Spring and closing with Gershwin’s “Rhapsody in Blue”

The SAGA of “Unfortunately, the process android.com.phone has stopped working”  An error message unique to Android phones – you won’t find this message on an Apple product (they’ll just tell you to buy a new phone).  I decided to purchase Internet on the ship for 24 hours at a cost of $24.98 and see if I could get any assistance from Samsung before I landed in port.

I started around 4 pm and finished, just before 11 pm - waiting for an app called Smart Switch to finish its backup download of my phone data to my PC.  The saga continued into Sunday. 

BOTTOM LINE: Patience is required – Contacts with at least 3 SAMSUNG representatives via Chat sessions eventually guided me through the entire 7 hour process.  

 I had a club sandwich delivered to my room for dinner – and  three 16 oz Miller Lites assisted in the process.

MARCH 31, 2019 Sunday
WEATHER:   warm and clear – up to 80 in the afternoon but with a breeze – it didn’t feel like 80

TRAVEL:  At Sea - Fort Lauderdale – Ft. Lauderdale Hilton Beach Resort – Marlins Stadium – Ft. Lauderdale Hilton Beach Resort

0400 Woke up - Smart Switch had completed copying the data from my phone to my PC
0415 Contacted Samsung via the PC and a Rep guided me through the process of doing a Factory Reset (which wiped everything off my phone) and transferring the data from the PC to the phone

From beginning to end this process consumed almost 7 hours of time
May you never see the message “Unfortunately, the process android.com.phone has stopped working.

Ate breakfast on board and left the ship ahead of schedule about 0845
US Customs was not a problem – the lines moved quickly

Today a taxi cost $25 from the terminal to the airport.  The cost was $16 last week Sunday – cost of fuel went up?  I should have negotiated the price.. . . .

Obtained an Nissan Sentra from Enterprise (an uncomfortable car compared to the Hyundai or KIA, and drove about 35 minutes to the Fort Lauderdale Hilton Beach Resort.

View of Fort Lauderdale Beach from the 6th floor of the Hilton Fort Lauderdale Beach Resort

My ugraded 4 room suite
Fort Lauderdale Hilton Beach Resort – located at the north end of Fort Lauderdale Beach, the drive here along the beach was like a scene from “Burn Notice.”  Valet parking only . . . . cost $45/day plus tips.  Checking in around 10:45 am my room was not ready then presenting my Hilton Honors card – it was ready – then it was not ready – but I got an UPGRADE to a 4 room suite with kitchen, living room, bath, bedroom and access to a huge private patio - large enough to hold a party for 30-50 people.

I connected to Hilton’s WIFI and reset my phone enabling Google, Messaging, Gmail and a variety of other APPS that were on the phone previous to the recurring  ‘message’ that made the phone useless.




Miami Marlins 3 – Colorado Rockies  0.  A solo Home Run in the bottom of the 7th for the Marlins.  It was a 35 mile, 50 minute drive to Marlins Stadium.  Parking cost $25 in a structure on the 3rd Base side of the stadium  Easy to get to.  The stadium was not very filled.   A nice baseball stadium.  With only 2 more baseball parks to visit this could rate alongside Cleveland – after my favorites Milwaukee and Philadelphia.  Good view of downtown Miami over the outfield wall.  Lots of food vendors  along the concourse– only one Team Store or stand selling Marlins gear – a 2019 Marlins Team Set was not yet available. 

View of the ball park from my seat Row 22 - nice view of downtown Miami in the distance - hardly any fans in the park

A walk along the beach, bars and restaurants proved fruitless.  I stopped at the Ritz-Carlton (excellent service) for 2 Corona’s at $7.49 each decided not to eat there.  Returned to a restaurant/bar on the corner of the Hilton but not affiliated with it – service was bad – I really don’t think the staff cared and a gin & tonic cost $12, compared to a $9 Tanquerey on the ship, this place was expensive. – went up to the 6th floor of the Hilton and had a delicious Lobster Mac & Cheese for $17 with a glass of Stella Artois $5.


APRIL 1, 2019 Saturday
WEATHER:   70 and mostly cloudy at 0500;

TRAVEL:   Ft. Lauderdale Hilton Beach Resort Biscayne National ParkEverglades National Park - Ft. Lauderdale Hilton Beach Resort


161 BISCAYNE NATIONAL PARK, Homestead, FL 
I visited here on January 27, 2015.  However, they were in the middle of negotiations with a new concessionaire so none of the boat tours were operating.  Since 95% of the park is underwater this was a bit disappointing.  Unless you have your own boat you could spend a day or two touring the islands and reefs.

So today I made a reservation with the new concessionaire, the Biscayne National PArk Institute for a trip to Boca Chita.

Boca Chita Lighthouse
The iconic and historic lighthouse, built by Mark Honeywell in the 1930s, guides boats to the beauty and wonders of the park. Boca Chita is the most visited island in the park.

The Florida Keys is one of the most famous and most visited archipelagos in the world. Contrary to what many may think, the Florida Keys do not begin at Key Largo. To the north lie nearly 50 more keys (ancient coral reef islands) that are virtually undeveloped. The fight to protect these last unspoiled keys culminated over 30 years ago with the creation of Biscayne National Monument.
Biscayne National Park



During the early 1950s, an era of newfound prosperity, Americans were taking more vacations and moving to Florida. The keys were a popular destination and property values soared. Many people looked at the northernmost keys, the ones bypassed by Henry Flagler's railroad and within the present day boundaries of the park, and saw them languishing in placid waters. They envisioned hotels, roads and other developments. Several years later came a plan to dredge up 8,000 acres of bay bottom to create a jetport. In 1961, 13 area landowners voted unanimously to create the City of Islandia. Plans for Seadade, a major industrial seaport, were announced in 1962. The proposal called for the dredging of a 40-foot deep channel through the Bay's clear, shallow waters. Dade County's "new frontier" was born, but it never grew beyond the toddler stage.
An initially small, but vocal, group of people had an entirely different vision for these islands; a national park unlike any other. The park would be covered by water, protecting not only the islands but the bay to the west and the reef to the east. It would provide a haven for wildlife and a respite for people tired of cramped city life. The park's proponents were not extraordinary in the usual sense of the word. They were doctors and pilots, farmers and writers. They were people who knew the area — people who understood new concepts like ecology and environmental preservation.
View of Miami from Boca Chita :Lighthouse - Marlin Stadium is the white dome on thr left

The Hatfields and McCoys had nothing on the two feuding groups. Words were exchanged, tempers flared and fights broke out. Lloyd Miller, president of the local Izaak Walton League, said that the opposition poisoned his dog and tried to get him fired from his job because of his support for the park idea. Slowly though, support began to build. Juanita Greene's inspiring newspaper stories in the Miami Herald helped accelerate the pace. Hardy Matheson based his entire campaign for county commissioner on the issue of establishing the park. Vacuum cleaner magnate Herbert W. Hoover, Jr., who spent considerable time in the area as a boy, brought legislators down from Washington for dramatic blimp rides over the proposed park, convinced that anyone who saw the place would be just as smitten with it as he was. By early 1968, local and national support for a Biscayne National Monument was at an all-time high.
Boca Chita Key from the lighhouse
Facing a ground swell of public support for the park idea, landowners in the city of Islandia brought in bulldozers in an attempt to spoil the area. Dubbed "spite highway," the swath was six lanes wide and seven miles long, right down the middle of Elliott Key. Park proponents were not deterred. Congress, led by longtime Representative Dante Fascell, created Biscayne National Monument to protect "a rare combination of terrestrial, marine and amphibious life in a tropical setting of great natural beauty." President Lyndon B. Johnson signed the bill on October 18, 1968.
That was nearly 50 years ago. Since then, a lot has changed. Greater Miami has become a Latin American capital, with 4 million residents and 10 million annual visitors from all over the world. The park has undergone several enlargements and a name change. Spite highway has grown in to an intimate tunnel through a tropical hardwood forest, and serves as the park's one and only hiking trail.
While the struggle to protect the park from current local threats continues, some things have not changed. The northern keys are still untethered by roads and bridges. The shallow water is still clear and beautiful. It is still a haven for wildlife and a respite for weary urban dwellers.

162 EVERGLADES NATIONAL PARK, Homestead, FL
I visited the Ernest F. Coe Visitor Center in Everglades National Park several times in January of 2015 – not much has changed – today it was the end of the day and later in the season – less people.  I had originally planned to visit the NIKE site again but tours stopped March 30th.



Everglades National Park houses one of the best preserved relics of the Cold War in Florida,
a historic Nike Hercules missile site called "Alpha Battery" or "HM69". 

The site remains virtually the same as it was when official use of the site ended in 1979. Construction of the site by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers was completed in 1965, just after the Cuban Missile Crisis of October 1962. At the time, the nation's air defenses were positioned to protect against a possible Soviet air attack over the North Pole and thus, this and other anti-aircraft missile sites were established to protect against a possible air attack from the south. The Nike Hercules missile site was listed on the U.S. Department of the Interior Register of Historic Places on July 27, 2004 as a Historic District.


The area includes 3 missile barns, a missile assembly building, a guard dog kennel, barracks, 2
Nike Hercules missiles, and various support elements. HM69 was also significant because of the technology employed. The South Florida Nike Hercules sites were integrated with Hawk missile sites to provide an all altitude defensive capability around South Florida. Approximately 140 soldiers staffed the 3 above-ground missile barns of HM69 to protect against an air attack from Cuba. The personnel of HM69, along with the members of other South Florida unites, received the Army Meritorious Unit Commendation which was one of the few times that it was awarded for deterrence rather than engagement with the enemy.



APRIL 2, 2019 Saturday
WEATHER:   68 and clear and 0500 – 40’s in Wisconsin


TRAVEL:   Ft. Lauderdale Hilton Beach Resort – Fort Lauderdale Airport - Home


APRIL 26, 2019 Friday
WEATHER:   high of 58 – sunny – windy – from the NNW

TRAVEL:   Manitowoc to Radisson Resort & Conference Center (Oneida Gaming), Green Bay, WI  

After a bowl of clam chowder at a Wisconsin bar along Lake Michigan in Manitowoc/Two Rivers, I checked out the Ice Age Trail’s Connecting Route between the northern end of Tisch Mills Segment and the southern end of the Kewanee River SegmentThere appears to be room to park at the junction of CTH F & Sleepy Hollow Road.
 
RADISSON RESORT & CONEERENCE CENTER – actually better than the Holiday Inn –larger room, friendlier staff – there are people here - WIFI works


WINGA/WIGEA Conference
The combined 69th WINGA (WIsconsin National Guard Association)/47th WINGEA (Wisconsin National Guard Enlisted Association) Conference.

These annual conferences have been combined for some years – I am still not a fan of the combined conference but I’m sure it’s a matter of attendance and cost – in the name of efficiency.

Apprehension about attending – emphasis seemed to be on Professional Development.  A poll at the Icebreaker on Friday night indicated that about a third of the attendees were here for Professional Development – i.e. ‘on order’s’ and getting paid.  Same goes for the annual NGAUS  (National Guard Association of the United States) – in the hope of getting younger members to attend again – it usually doesn’t happen for “traditional guardsmen.”   I’m not so sure there are stats somewhere that say it does . . . . it’s more of a ‘feel good’ feeling

That pay thing seems to be a recurring item – especially when it comes to resolutions.


Army & Air Resolutions always seem to be about equipment and modernization but  the specific WINGA resolutions submitted seem to also include – for lack of a better word ‘entitlements’

-       Fitness Stipend of $150/mo to belong to a Health Club
-       Provide Full BAS to all NG Airmen and Soldiers
-       Eliminate MOS specific bonuses, and provide bonuses to all IET Soldiers regardless of MOS
-       Provide a one-time $1,500 uniform allowance to all National Guard officers – or provide all uniforms free of charge to reserve component officers   Amended to ‘exchange in kind’
-       Army and Air Guard traditional and technician aviators receive full Aviation Incentive Pay
-       Exempt Duel Status Title 32 Technicians from the Qualitative Retention Process (QRB) until they would reach for a minimum Technician Retirement. Did Not Pass
-       Recommend NGAUS support the addition of a CUAS (Counter Unmanned Aerial System) capability to include kinetic search and destroy 
-       NGAUS establish a resolution for KC-135 Refueling/Defueling Capability to add refuel/defual capability to locations CONUS and OCONUs

Perhaps, only the last two would get my vote.

Nice grab bag of goodies at check-in: a UW water bottle, a wireless speaker, a 2 ½”  jack knife, and several carbiners.  I won a large aluminum water bottle (thermos) in a raffle..

The Friday night Ice Breaker had a variety of silent auction items and several vendor displays.  Food buffet was ‘tailgate’ themed – brats, burgers, beans, salad.


APRIL 27, 2019 Saturday
WEATHER:   mostly cloudy – high of 40 – the Cubs game was snowed out

TRAVEL:   Manitowoc to Radisson Resort & Conference Center (Oneida Gaming), Green Bay, WI  

RADISSON RESORT & CONEERENCE CENTER – nice conference facilities and service, WIFI works

WINGA/WIGEA Conference

0700-0800     Breakfast Buffet
0800-0830     Retiree Caucus
0845-1030     WINGA/WIENGA Joint Session – MG John Dunbar, Adjutant General-Wisconsin; GEN Joseph Lengyel, Chief National Guard Bureau (NGB).  Dunbar is also Chairman of NGAUS – hence his ability to pull in Lengyel who also is one of the Joint Chiefs of Staff.
BG DUNBAR
Membership – profession – association
But “we”  (the guard) are not full time soldiers – i.e. 365 days a year
To be a true professional is to be an advocate – in support of partner/contractors/vendors   - a good message – he may have been the 1st TAG I’ve heard to be vibrant – strong – about the NGAUS

GEN LENGYEL
Concurrent – professional – modernization
 . . .  yes, the guard brings a civilian skill set to the military – nothing new here
and yes, in all the world the guard is unique – most other militaries (UK – AU) cannot comprehend how we do this . . . . .
but we are an operational force and “we’re not going back”
reiterated SECDEF Mattis’ - National Defense Strategy
READY          MODERN      BUILD PARTNERSHIPS              REFORMS/CHANGE
Vigilant       Reach                 Power

Awards – to include CPT Cody Anderson, B 1-121 FA – whose family received the award as Army Guard Officer of the Year – congratulated the family

1045-1130     WINGA Business Meeting – started late – reconvened about 1245  - one resolution did not pass/ one was amended

1145-1245     Lunch sit-down  salad/rolls, pork loin, rice and beans  UNEXPECTED not on Program or Registration – also a presentation by MAJ Brian Faltinson, PAO on the history of the 32nd Division during WW I

PD (Professional Development) Sessions for those getting paid in attendance –

1900-2100     Annual Banquet – Speaker Randy Fox – servant leadership


APRIL 30, 2019 Tuesday
WEATHER:   42 and fog at 0300, rain through northern IN, sunny and 80’s in KY
TRAVEL:   Burlington to Nicholsville, KY to Danville, KY to Perryville, KY to Hampton Inn – Danville, KY 

Hampton Inn – Danville, KY  WIFI works

408 CAMP NELSON National Monument, Nichollsville, KY
Camp Nelson - entrance
Camp Nelson National Monument, formerly Camp Nelson Civil War Heritage Park is a 525 acre historical museum located in Jessemine County about 20 miles south of Lexington, KY.  It was given National Monument status on October 27, 2018 by President Donald Trump.. It became the 418th site that is overseen by the National Park Service.

The Visitor Center has a short video and a small museum.  When I visited there was no ranger, as yet, assigned to the site.  There are 4 miles of  trails the cross the Kentucky landscape.  They range from ½ to 1.3 miles in length.  Although only one period building remains, there is little or no development in the area – a real gem to see how the fort was laid out.  There are remnants of several forts constructed to protect Camp Nelson’s northern approach.

The origin of Camp Nelson is closely linked with Abraham Lincoln’s desire to free pro-union sections of  east Tennessee from Confederate control.  The camp supplied Union efforts in eastern Tennessee, central and eastern Kentucky, and southwestern Virginia. 

In the spring of 1863, the new Army of the Ohio was organized and palced under the control of MG Ambrose Burnside with orders to invade east Tennessee.  To assist the campaign and to defend central and eastern Kentucky, Burnside ordered his engineers to find a suitable location in central Kentucky.  The site chosen was a high plateau above the Kentucky River is southern Jessamine County.  The depot and encampment was officially named Camp Nelson on June 12, 1863 after the late MG William “Bull” Nelson who founded Camp Dick Robinson, the first Union recruitment camp in Kentucky, located south of Camp Nelson.

Camp Nelosn - map

The site was naturally defensible and was astride a major turnpike and a bridge across the Kentucky River.

Camp Nelson is bounded by the Kentucky River and Hickman Creek, both enclosed by nearly vertical limestone walls which extend up to 500 feet in height.  The only exposed portion of the camp was its northern end where a line of entrenchments and fortifications were constructed.   


Camp Nelson provided the Union Army with over 10,000 African American soldiers, United States Colored Troops (USCT) making it the third largest recruiting and training depot for African Americans in the nation.

Many of these black soldiers brought their families.  Eventually, the Army established a refugee camp, which had 97 cottages and numerous tents and shacks providing housing for over 3,000 people. 

Although the Emancipation Proclamation was signed on January 1, 1963 it did not free slaves in states loyal to the Union, such as Kentucky.  In 1864 slaves who joined the Army were declared free.

The Reverend John G. Fee, an abolitionist and founder of Berea College helped to teach and administer at the refugee camp, which included both a school and a hospital.  After the closing of Camp Nelson, Fee bought 130 acres including the refugee camp land which he sold or leased to the African American residents.  The NPS plans to develop and interpret this area in the future.

Perryville Battlefield State Historic Site, Perryville, KY

My favorite Civil War Battlefield – I have not visited here in almost 2 years and some land has been added, trails developed, trails named and some contemporary buildings on acquired land razed.

This is not a site administered by the National Park Service.  It is a Kentucky State Park.

The Battle of Perryville was fought on October, 8, 1862.  There were 55,396 Union troops in the area – only 20,000 fought in the battle.  There were 16,800 Confederate troops, of which 16,000 fought.  Perryville was the “high water mark’ for the Confederates in the Western Theater.  Never again were the Western Confederates closer to winning the war.  The battle kept Kentucky in Union hands which contributed to Union victory. 


MAY 1, 2019 Wednesday
WEATHER:   67 at 4 am – cooled to 62 at higher elevations but steadied into the 70’s as the sun rose – 88 when I reached Vicksburg, WI partly cloudy

TRAVEL:   south to the Bluegrass Parkway – south on I-xx through Nashville, through Memphis – south on I-55 into Mississippi to  - along the portion of the Natchez Trace Parkway and to Vicksburg.

Hampton Inn – Vicksburg, MS  – staff could not give me Hilton Honors Points because the room was paid through a group account – did not recognize me as a Hilton Honors member – could not connect to WIFI – breakfast and 2 hour happy hour included

189 NATCHEZ TRACE PARKWAY
Last visited April 8-12, 2015.  I made one historic stop along the Natchez Parkway on my trip to Vicksburg

187 VICKSBURG NATIONAL MILITARY PARK, Vicksburg, MS
First visited with Chad & Paul on the return trip from the National Guard Association of the United States (NGAUS) Conference that was held in September 2003 – Biloxi, MS. 


A second visit spanning April 8-12, 2015 covered Grant’s entire Vicksburg Campaign of 1863.  At that time I was travelling with my trailer.  There are not many choices to eat in Vicksburg – ate at the same place I’d stopped in 2015 – Rusty’s Riverfront Bar & Grill



MAY 2, 2019 Thursday
WEATHER:   69 at 4 am, cloudy – forecast high in the 70’s possible rain, cloudy in the morning – cleared up – sunny – a pleasant day

TRAVEL:  bus – tour guides Terry Winschel (retired Vicksburg NMP Historian & Ed Bearss NPS Historian Emeritus

69th Annual Tour of the Chicago Civil War Roundtable – VICKSBURG DAY 1
Vicksburg was a campaign – a series of battles culminating with the surrender of the City of Vicksburg on July 4, 1863 after a 47 day siege. 

Louisiana Circle
South Fort at the southern end
of the Vicskbrug Defenses on the
Mississippi River
The major players in this campaign included The Army of the Tennessee under the command of MG Ulysses S. Grant and his corps commanders; MG John McClernand (XIII Army Corps), MG William T. Sherman (XV Army Corps), and MG James McPherson (XVII Army Corps).  Grants Army of the Tennessee engaged the Army of Vicksburg under the command of LTG John C. Pemberton and his division commanders; MG C.L. Stevenson, MG John H. Forney, MG M.L. Smith, and MG John S. Bowen.

STOP 1          Lousiana Circle – the southern end of the Vicksburg defenses
This fort is referred to as South Fort. Confederate artillery commanded the River.  Like Fort Hill at the northern end of the Confederate line was so strong it was never assaulted by infantry.

View of the Mississippi River from Lousiana Cricle (South Fort)

STOP 2          Pemberton’s HQ
 Balfor House

USS Cairo
STOP 3          USS Cairothe USS Cairo was sunk by a torpedo on its expedition up the Yazoo River 12 Dec 1862.

STOP 4          29 DEC 1862 Chickasaw Bayou Battlefield – I had not been here before – none of the land is administered by the NPS.




Battle of Chickasaw Bayou 



In the fall of 1862, Grant had originally planned a single-thrust attack following the Mississippi Central RR south from his base between La Grange and Grand Junction, TN.  H initiated this operation on November 4.  Confronted by stiffening Confederate opposition and upon learning that MG John McClernand had been authorized to recruit and field a force to attach down the Mississippi, Grant changed his plan.  He devised a two-pronged attack on Vicksburg designed to seize the city and open the Mississippi River.

While Grant would occupy the main Confederate Army under the command of LTG John Pemberton, along the line of the Tallahatchie and Yalobusha Rivers, Sherman would be able to attack and seize the relatively lightly protected fortifications on the north side of Vicksburg.

Grant initially succeeded but had his supply line interdicted by Confederate cavalry raids under MG Nathan Bedford Forrest and MG Earl Van DornGrant tried to inform Sherman of his withdrawal, but the Confederate raiders had cut the telegraph lines.

Sherman landed his troops on the Yazoo River on December 26, 1862.  At the time, the river was very high and much of the countryside was underwater.  While Sherman was trying to get his forces organized, the defenders were warned of the advance of the amphibious force and hastily put the 6,000 men available into the defenses.  Eventually, because Grant was no longer occupying Pemberton’s main force, 15,000 men were in the defenses before the beginning of the Union attack.  This maneuver would prove deadly for the attackers who had to use narrow causeways over the flooded ground to attack the well-entrenched defenders supported by artillery that commanded to approaches to the Confederate positionsSherman’s 32,000 men eventually withdrew back to Milliken’s Bend.

STOP 5          Lunch – box lunch



Grants Canal



STOP 6          FEB-MAR 1963  Grant’s Canal – Rather than wait for his troops to sit idle in winter quarters until spring, Grant decided to conduct a series of peripheral operations aimed at capturing Vicksburg.  In these efforts Grant had little confidence of success, but at a minimum his troops would be kept busy through the winter and would be campaigned hardened when spring did arrive.

The first of these peripheral operations entailed the continuation of wok on the canal begun by BG Thomas Williams, who brigade accompanied Admiral Farragut’s force the previous year when they had moved up from New Orleans.  Because of the hairpin turn of the main channel of the Mississippi River, a canal dug across the base of the peninsula would bypass the fortifications at Vicksburg.

The canal was dug wide enough and deep enough to float Rear Admiral David Dixon Porter’s gunboats and transports.  But before the protective dam at the north end could be removed to allow the power of the river to complete the job, the Mississippi River flooded and washed out the dam, spreading water over the countryside instead of scouring the canal as intended.  In the meantime, the Confederates had moved artillery to a position from which ti could sweep the exit of the canal.  On March 27, 1863 Grant ordered the canal to be abandoned.


Grand Gulf Military Park - Fort Wade

STOP 7          Grand Gulf Military Park - a Mississippi State Park
Grant opened a new line of operations on March 31,1863, when he started moving his troops south of Vicksburg on the Louisiana side of the Mississippi River.  First McClernand’s  and then McPherson’s corps moved through the difficult terrain, cut by numerous bayous that had to be bridged by Union forces. 

By April 29, the two Union corps were at Hard Times, LA prepared to cross to the Louisiana side of the river.  They were joined there by Porter’s fleet which had passed the batteries at Vicksburg on April 16 and 22.

Originally, Grant had intended to land his forces at Grand Gulf.  To do that he planned to have Porter’s fleet neutralize or defeat the Confederate batteries located at Fort Coburn and Fort Wade.  Back then the Mississippi River ran directly under the forts.

Fort Coburn’s defenses were commanded by BG John S. Bowen, who had about 4,000 soldiers available for defending the fortifications.  Reinforcements were promised but were delayed due to Grierson’s Cavalry Raid and the danger posed by Sherman’s corps left north of Vicksburg..

Bowen’s defender’s proved more than a match for the gunboats.  Unable to pound Forts Wade and Coburn into submission, Grant was forced to find another crossing site.

Windsor Mansion Ruins - this truly must have been a magnificanet home
scene of destroyed southern mansion in the movie 'Raintree County'

STOP 8          Windsor Mansion Ruins a scene from Raintree County starring Montgomery Cliff and Elizabeth Taylor was shot here.  The mansion burned after the war.

STOP 9          1 May 1863 Battle of Port Gibson (Battle of Thompson’s Hill) - stop along the Bruinsburg Road
After  landing at Bruinsburg, McClernand’s corps started marching to Port Gibson along the Rodney Road.  Before nightfall his troops clashed with the Confederates near the Shaifer House.  This is located on what was then a connecting plantation road.  Today this road and the Rodney Road are ill maintained, winding, dirt roads that I had traveled in the past; the tour bus did not attempt to take this route.

Battle of Port Gibson
However, McClernand’s lead units had ran into Edward Tracy’s brigade of Bowen’s Confederate defenders.  McClernand ordered BG Osternaus to advance at first light on May 1 along a connecting plantation road toward the Bruinsburg Road.  McClernand’s other 3 divisions moved southeast along the Rodney Road.

During the night of April 30-May 1 Confederate BG Martin Green had moved up to the vicinity of the Shaifer House.  After the initial skirmish, McClernand waited until daylight to attack with the divisions of Carr, Hovey and A.J. Smith.  Despite their numerical superiority, the difficult terrain caused problems as the Union troops attempted to deploy.

By this time BG Bowen realized that the bulk of Grant’s army was in front of him.  He attempted to bring forward every available solder as reinforcements.

At Magnolia Church Green’s men were eventually forced back toward Port Gibson.  By this time McCPherson’s corps had crossed the Mississippi River and was reinforcing Osterhaus’s division.  The Confederates were forced to retreat behind Bayou Pierre.  This action forced Bowen to withdraw his troops from Grand Gulf to avoid capture.
           

MAY 3, 2019 Friday
WEATHER:   light rain at 8 am – stopped raining – cloudy most of the morning – warm and parly cloudy in the afternoon – another pleasant day

Hampton Inn Vicksburgstill unable to connect to WIFI – used my phone as a hotspot

TRAVEL:  bus – tour guides Terry Winschel (retired Vicksburg NMP Historian & Ed Bearss NPS Historian Emeritus

69th Annual Tour of the Chicago Civil War Roundtable – VICKSBURG DAY 2

After his success at Port Gibson, Grant had to make some difficult decisions.  His original plan approved by General Halleck and President Lincoln was to send a corps south to assist MG Nathanial Banks seize Port Hudson.

Based on reports from Banks, Grant concluded that he would lose a month in reorganization and inactivity trying to take Port Hudson, a month the Confederates would use to recover from the position they were now in.

Grant decided to move on Confederate forces reported to be in Jackson, MS, with the intention of preventing them from reinforcing Pemberton at Vicksburg..  Once that force was neutralized he would march on Vicksburg.  He requested Halleck and Lincoln to approve his new plan.  Of course, the nearest telegraph to Washington was located at Cairo, IL.  It took 7-8 days for the message to get to Washington and 8 days for the reply.  His request was disapproved but by that time Grant was investing Vicksburg.   Grant’s army  was resupplied overland from Milliken’s Bend and across the Mississippi at Port Gibson


STOP 1          Crossroads at Willow Springs

STOP 2          Rocky Springs – old Presbyterian Church

Raymond - Artillery Row
STOP 3          12 MAY 1863 Battle of Raymond – Union Gun Line
Pemberton expected Grant to head directly for Vicksburg, from the Port Gibson area, so he sent Sherman’s corps which came across the Mississippi River at Grand Gulf to move toward the Big Black River on the route to Vicksburg.  This was part of Grant’s operational deception plan.  Grant ordered McPherson’s corps toward Jackson.



Pemberton, expecting no more than a small Union brigade on the right flank of an army marching toward Vicksburg sent BG John Gregg’s brigade of 2,500 Confederates to Raymond and attack Grant’s flankGregg planned to attack and roll up the flank forcing the Union army back to their base around Grand Gulf

As Gregg put his plan into action, he realized that he was facing an entire corps not just a small brigade detachment; Gregg ordered his regiments to withdraw..  

STOP 4          Box Lunch - Raymond

STOP 5          16 MAY 1863 Battle of Champion Hill – crossing of current Billy Fields & D.C. Johnson Roads
Following the capture of Jackson, MS, MG Ulysses S. Grant’s advancing 32,000 Union soldiers met 22,000 Confederates under LTG John C. Pemberton in a fierce struggle for a vital crossroad roughly halfway between Vicksburg and Jackson.

Battle of Champion Hill - Intial Confederate defense and Union appraoch 

Pemberton posted his divisions on high ground in a 3-mile line covering the roads from Jackson.  Grant’s men moved west along the Jackson Road and met Pemberton’s men at Champion’s Hill.  Outflanked, Pemberton stretched his line to hold back the Yankees advancing all across his front.

Battle of Champion Hill

As the Union soldiers tried to reform and consolidate their gains, they were nearly swept away by a counterattack led by a division of BG John Bowen’s Missourians and Arkansans.

Grant ordered more men towards the hill and Bowen’s Confederates were themselves driven off, compelling a general retreat.  Confederate BG Lloyd Tilghman was killed while directing a desperate rearguard action that enabled most of the Confederate army to escape toward Vicksburg.

The decisive Union victories at Champion Hill and Big Black River the next day were instrumental in forcing the Confederates our of the open and into a doomed position inside the fortifications of Vicksburg.

The Battle of Champion Hill was the largest and bloodiest action of Grant's Vicksburg Campaign.


Jim Litehauser & Ed Bearss
MONUMENT UNVEILING IN HONOR OF EDWIN C. BEARSS
Presented on behalf of the American Battlefield Trust//Civil War Trust -  President, Jim Lighthizer, several Trust board members, Sid Champion, Ed Bearss’ daughter, the Vicksburg NMP Superintendent, other local dignitaries and of course the Chicago Civil War Roundtable.. 

Ed Bearss (bars) was wounded by Japanese machine gun fire in the Pacific during WW II and spent 26 months in military hospitals and spent hours reading history.  A Montana 
Native educated in a one-room schoolhouse, Ed began his long and storied National Park Service career in 1955 at Vicksburg National Military Park, where he helped locate the sunken Union gunboat USS Cairo.  From 1981-1994 Ed served as Chief Historian for theNatural Park Service. 

Since his retirement in 1995, Ed has continued to give lectures, including Ken Burns’ The Civil War Ed has received many honors, including the US Department of the Interior’s Distinguished Service Award.  His dedication to battlefield preservation and Civil War history prompted the American Battlefield Trust to name its Lifetime Achievement Award after him, and he was its first recipient in 2001.  In 2018 the organization rededicated the award and again presented it to the longtime trustee, who turned 95 that June. 

Today the Trust unveiled a monument in honor of Ed’s truly monumental contributions to teaching American history and preserving American battlefields, including his beloved Champion Hill.


Battle of Big Black River




STOP 6          17 MAY 1863 Battle of Big Black River – stop just off of Old US 80 along initial union line of battle – no monuments/markers

Six miles west of Champion Hill was the Big Black River.  Pemberton resolved to hold a line at the Big Black River.  Designated to defend earthworks that had been dug in the previous month, BG Vaughn’s exhausted Tennessee brigade occupied the works.  At daybreak on May 17 the lead units of Carr’s division made contact and pressed the attack.  Gaining the advantage Union forces captured many Confederates before they could cross the Big Black River.   



Buffet dinner at the historic B’nai B;rith Literary Club  - downtown Vicksburg     
Retired BG Parker Hills, from Mississippi, provided an informative power point presentation about the acquisition and archeological work done by the Friends of Raymond Battlefield







MAY 4, 2019 Saturday
WEATHER:   rain at 8 am – rain most of the day changed the tour

Hampton Inn Vicksburg still unable to connect to WIFI – used my phone as a hotspot

Map of the Confederate Defenses at Vicksburg

TRAVEL:  bus – tour guides Terry Winschel (retired Vicksburg NMP Historian & Ed Bearss NPS Historian Emeritus

69th Annual Tour of the Chicago Civil War Roundtable – VICKSBURG DAY 3
STOP 1          Battery De Golyer
Battery De Golyer

CPT Samuel De Golyer, 8th Michigan Battery (six guns)
Battery De Golyer is a typical Union Artillery emplacement in support of the siege of Vicksburg.   From this position, a battery fired in support of the May 22 attack on the Great Redoubt.  Later 22 guns were moved into this position, the largest concentration of Union artillery in the line.  De Golyer was killed directing fire of his battery.  Earthworks were built up in front of the artillery to help protect the gunners.  Sharpshooters were assigned to help suppress the fire of Confederate sharpshooters who were inflicting casualties on the gun crew. 


Batttery De Golyer


Illinois Monument
STOP 2          Illinois Monument/Shirley House
Shirley House
The Shirley House is only wartime structure still existing in the park.  The Shriley House was the start point for Union Operations against the 3rd Louisiana Redan.  Terry Winschel had us walk the route of Logan’s Approach.  It followed the ridge along which the Jackson Rd runs, and approached a high, commanding salient .  The Confederates resisted by burning sap-rollers, using mines, and throwing grenades. This approach was used to dig a mine gallery – the mine was loaded and fired on July 1, destroying the Confederate parapet and creating a crater 30 feet in diameter,  No attempt was made to occupy the crater since an attempt on June 25 by the 25th Illinois failed with severe loss.   
Ed Bearss
USS Cairo






STOP 3         DUE TO RAIN USS CAIRO MUSEUM & BACKGROUND OF USS CIARO BY ED BEARSS
Story of the USS Cairo





















STOP 4       
Goldies Trail Bar BQ – excellent

STOP 5          Logan’s Approach to Stockade RedanComplex



STOP 6        Vicksburg National Military Park Visitor Center – watched film







MAY 5, 2019 Sunday
WEATHER:   clear and sunny morning temp in the 60’s – high of 74


TRAVEL:  bus – tour guides Terry Winschel (retired Vicksburg NMP Historian & Ed Bearss NPS Historian Emeritus – Medgar & Myrlie Evers Home National Monument, Jackson MS Cape Giradeau, MO

Hampton Inn Vicksburg, MS – still unable to connect to WIFI – used my phone as a hotspot

Holiday Inn Express Cape Girardeau, MOno reservation but HIE treated me much, much better than the staff at the Hampton Inn in VicksburgWIFI works

At the end of the tour all participants received two outstanding 8 ½ x 11 spiral bound books – Parker Hills, Terry Winschel, Mike Green et al           
Vicksburg Campaign driving tour guide - Friends of the Vicksburg Campaign and Historic Trail   
Vicksburg National Military Park Art of Commemoration


Assault on the Stockade Redan Complex
69th Annual Tour of the Chicago Civil War Roundtable – VICKSBURG DAY 4

STOP 1          Union Line view of the Stockade Redan Complex  Sherman’s attack
The Stockade Redan complex is an imposing defensive position built to guard the avenue of approach along the Graveyard Road. On May 19. Sherman ordered MG Francis Blair’s division to attack and seize the redan.  At dark, Blair pulled the remnants of his division back having suffered more than 600 casualties in a few hours.

In the Union attack of May 19, the Confederate defenders here were not the demoralized and defeated troops that Grant had expected.  Units of Hebert’s brigade of MG Forney’s division occupied the south and east side of the defenses here.  These troops were fresh and full of fight having prepared the Vicksburg defenses while the battles of Big Black and Champion Hill were being fought.

Sherman's words - attack on the Stockade Redan
The main part of the redan was defended by troops of Cockrell’s brigade – although these troops had been at Champion Hill and Big Black, the strong defenses of the redan added more strength to already good fighting mettle of the troops in BG John Bowen’s divisionthe best division in Pemberton’s army.  Confederate defenders suffered 157 casualties.

After a second failed attack of May 22,1863 using all 3 Union corps, the work of regular siege began.

STOP 2          USS Cairo rest stop

View from Fort Hill - the Chickasaw Bayou Battlefield is to the left below

STOP 3          Fort Hill
Fort Hill was the northern stronghold of the Confederate defenses around Vicksburg.  Deemed to strong to attack it was never assaulted by an infantry force.  Confederate guns, together with a strong battery on the riverbank below the fort commanded the Mississippi River

STOP 4          Surrender Interview Site
As Union forces edged ever closer to the Confederate lines, Grant planned a general assault for July 6.  The assault was being planned to coordinate with the simultaneous detonation of 13 mines dug by sappers along the Confederate defensive line.

Confederate LTG Joe Johnston finally made a move toward Vicksburg, to distract the Union army and allow LTG Pemberton one last chance of breaking out on July 7.  The word never got to Pemberton.


On July 2 Pemberton consulted with his division commanders to determine the feasibility of a breakout.  Due to the inactivity of soldiers remaining in siege lines combined with reduced rations – there was little strength left in the Confederate soldiers.  There would be no breakout.

Pemberton decided to negotiate favorable terms of surrender – hoping to have his troops paroled instead of becoming prisoners of war.  Pemberton had BG John Bowen, formerly Grant’s neighbor when stationed in St. Louis, attempt to open negotiations.  Grant called for unconditional surrender.

Eventually, Grant met Pemberton between the lines.  Early on July 4, the Confederate forces surrendered

Grant would have been hard pressed to feed and transport 30,000 prisoners. Pemberton’s forces were paroled, most went home, some fought again for the South.  The surrender yielded 170 cannon and 60,000 rifles and ammunition.  The battle of Vicksburg was over.

Texas Monument
Railroad Redoubt

McPherson's Attack on the Railroad Redoubt
STOP 5  Railroad Redoubt
This fort was built to guard the approach into Vicksburg along the line of the Southern Railroad of Mississippi.  On May 22, McClernand’s corps attacked parts of Stevenson’s defending division.  Although remnants of several units planted their colors on the parapet of the redoubt before being repulsed, the attack was a failure.  The southeast angle of the fort had been crumbled by artillery fire and was breached by SGT J.E. Griffith and 12 men of the 22nd IowaWaul’s Texas Legion along with the 30th Alabama quickly counterattacked leaving only Griffith alive as he pulled back to Union lines with prisoners. Unable to exploit any of the small breakthroughs, the Union troops returned to their lines after dark.






409 EDGAR AND MYRLIE EVERS HOME NATIONAL MONUMENT, Jackson, MS


Edgar & Myrle Evers Home
Jackson, Mississippi
The Mississippi home of a slain civil rights leader became a national monument on March 13, 2019 when President Donald Trump signed a bill establishing the Medgar and Myrlie Evers Home National Monument in Jackson.

Medgar Evers was a World War II veteran who fought in Europe and returned to his native Mississippi, where he again faced harsh segregation. As the first field secretary of the Mississippi NAACP beginning in 1954, he led voter registration drives and boycotts to push for racial equality. He was assassinated June 12, 1963, outside the family’s modest ranch-style home.

Myrlie Evers was national chairwoman of the NAACP from 1995 to 1998. After living in Mississippi in recent years, she moved back to California, where she raised her three children after their father’s death.

The National Park Service took over the modest ranch-style home from Tougaloo College, which supported the change, bringing money for preservation. The Evers family donated the home to historically black Tougaloo in 1993, and it is open by appointment for tours. The three-bedroom home stood vacant for years after the family moved away in the 1960s, and it was restored in the mid-1990s. It is now filled with midcentury furniture, and one of the bedrooms has a display about the family’s history. A bullet hole is visible in a kitchen wall..

As the first National Association for the Advancement of Colored People (NAACP) field secretary in Mississippi (1954-1963), Medgar Evers (1925-1963) worked to end racial violence and improve the quality of life for black Mississippians. Evers and his wife Myrlie established the NAACP office in Jackson, Mississippi in the mid-1950s. He tirelessly led marches, prayer vigils, voter registration drives and boycotts, and persistently appealed to blacks and whites to work together for a peaceful solution to social problems. The eyes of the nation turned to the city of Jackson in the early 1960s as Evers orchestrated a boycott of white merchants. Backed by federal troops, he also led efforts to help James Meredith integrate the University of Mississippi in 1962. When disgruntled racists hurled a firebomb into the Evers home in 1963, Myrlie Evers bravely put out the flames with a garden hose. Evers continued his work, but an assassin's bullet ended his life a few weeks later outside his home. Evers' brother Charles took up his work as the NAACP field secretary in Mississippi. In 1994 - 31 years and three trials later - Evers' killer, Byron De La Beckwith, was convicted and sentenced to life in prison. After her husband’s death, Myrlie Evers (now Evers-Williams) emerged as a civil rights figure in her own through her work with the NAACP and later established the Medgar and Myrlie Evers Institute in Jackson, Mississippi. The Evers Home was added to the African American Civil Rights Network in August 2018. 



MAY 4, 2019 Monday

WEATHER:   clear and sunny morning temp in the 60’s – high of 74



TRAVEL:  Cape Giradeau, MO to Cahokia Mounds State Park to Burlington



CAHOKIA MOUNDS STATE PARK

Cahokia  Mounds - large mound






MAY 17, 2019 Sunday

WEATHER:   partly cloudy 68



TRAVEL:  stopped here on the return to Interstate Park from completing a segment of the Ice Age Trail



43 ST. CROIX NATIONAL SCENIC RIVER (NSR) – St. Croix River Visitor Center (St. Croix, WI)

Last visited here on June 24, 2014.  Today I took a photograph of the Passport Stamp.



The St. Croix and Namekegon Rivers are focal points for people who live in and visit the area.  The river attracts paddlers, boaters and anglers.  Historic river towns, scenery and wildlife draw hikers, artists and nature enthusiasts.


Peoples have lived here for at least 12,000 years, since the end of the last Ice Age.  They found abundant food and materials and used the rivers as trade routes.

Beginning in the late 1600’s Europeans came to the area seeking furs of beaver and other animals.  They traveled the rivers to trade with Indians.


Logging became the economic driver after the Treaty of 1837 opened the are to European American settlement.  The new arrivals began cutting the pine forest.  They and other settlers spurred development in Minnesota and Wisconsin.  Their work supplied lumber to the Midwest. 

By the late 1890’s, people were interested in preserving the St. Croix and Namekagon Rivers.  In 1895 Minnesota established a State Park to protect a short stretch of the  St. Croix.  Seventy years later, the river was one of the original rivers named in the federal Wild and Scenic Rivers Act of 1968.  People instrumental to passing this law, like Senators Walter Mondale and Gaylord Nelson had deep ties to both rivers.       


JULY 20, 2019 Saturday
WEATHER:   high in the 90’s

TRAVEL:  Burlington, WI to Independence, OH (suburb of Cleveland).  Driving a Toyota Highlander (very nice SUV) as a follow on to my son and his family moving to Carlisle, PA and a years attendance at the US Army War College.  Left at 1100 CDT arrived in Independence, OH at 2130 EDT  -  This just seemed like a long drive – probably because of the late start.

Hyatt Place – a large room – but the amenities and staff were not up to the standards of most Holiday or Hampton Inn’s  


JULY 21, 2019 Sunday
St. Michael's
 
WEATHER:   another day with highs in the 90’s

TRAVEL:  Independence, OH to Carlisle, PA.

Mass at St. Michael’s in Independence – a 2 mile drive from the hotel.  A fairly large church – probably built in the 60’s – could easily hold 400 – about 125 in attendance. An older priest – acolytes were 3 senior men – there were very few children (families) in church but the announcements included mention of a new “youth minister’ starting August 1 - a challenging assignment.    The homily and first reading had to do with “listening’ – we are a people of action – take the time to listen.



Paul & Sarah's House in Carlisle, PA

Root Hall - US Army War College


JULY 22, 2019 Monday
WEATHER:   nice in Carlisle

TRAVEL: Flight to Harrusbrug to Milwaukee via Detroit


AUGUST 29 – SEPTEMBER 3, 2019
141st NATIONAL GUARD ASSOCIATION OF THE UNITED STATES (NGAUS) CONFERENCE:  

THURSDAY:  Checked into the Hyatt Regency Convention Center.  Had a late afternoon snack at Bubba Gump Shrimp Company – just across the street from the hotel.
US Mint - Denver


FRIDAY: I usually join the golf tournament on the day before the conference begins but

not this year – getting tired of carrying my clubs through airports.  I also considered doing a ‘Fourteener’ – a climb/walk to the summit of the many peaks above 14,000 feet in Colorado.  The one selected was a 3.5 mile one-way walk up a average grade of 15% starting around 12,000 feet – it would have been cool – but that’s 2 miles up – my legs may be in shape but the altitude may have gotten to me.

Plenty of things to do in downtown Denver . . . Decided to go to the US Mint but tours were closed until Tuesday. The Mint offers free tours of the Philadelphia and Denver facilities, which cover the present state of coin manufacturing and the history of the Mint. Visitors learn about the craftsmanship required at all stages of the minting process, from the original designs and sculptures to the actual striking of the coins. I would have been interesting – I’ve never been to a mint. An interesting history.

US Mint - Denver
CLOSED
On April 2, 1792 Congress passed the Coinage Act establishing the first national mint in the United States. During the Colonial Period, monetary transactions were handled using foreign or colonial currency, livestock, or produce. After the Revolutionary War, the U.S. was governed by the Articles of Confederation, which authorized states to mint their own coins. In 1788, the Constitution was ratified by a majority of states and discussions soon began about the need for a national mint.
Congress chose Philadelphia, what was then the nation’s capital, as the site of our first Mint. President George Washington appointed a leading scientist, David Rittenhouse, as the first director. Rittenhouse bought two lots at 7th and Arch Streets to build a three-story facility, the tallest building in Philadelphia at the time. It was the first federal building erected under the Constitution.
Coin production began immediately. The Act specified the following coinage denominations:
In copper: half cent and cent
In silver: half dime, dime, quarter, half dollar, and dollar
In gold: quarter eagle ($2.50), half eagle ($5), and eagle ($10)
In March 1793, the Mint delivered its first circulating coins11,178 copper cents.
In 1795, the Mint became the first federal agency to employ women: Sarah Waldrake and Rachael Summers were hired as adjusters.
In the early 1800s, America experienced its first two gold rushes: first in North Carolina and then in Georgia. Demand on the Philadelphia Mint to melt, refine, and produce coins from this gold pushed the Mint to its limits. In 1835, Congress passed legislation to establish three new branch Mints located in Charlotte, NC; Dahlonega, GA; and New Orleans, LA. Charlotte and Dahlonega concentrated on processing the miners’ gold into coins, while New Orleans minted both gold and silver coins to keep up with a growing America.
Colorado Museum of History
In 1861 at the beginning of the Civil War, the Confederacy gained control of these three facilities, sporadically producing Confederate coinage before converting all of them to assay offices. The U.S. regained possession of the facilities in 1862. Dahlonega never reopened, but Charlotte and New Orleans opened several years later before Charlotte closed in 1919 and New Orleans in 1942.
In 1849, the California gold rush brought a flood of people west for the chance to get rich. Transporting the gold east all the way to the Philadelphia Mint was time-consuming and fraught with risk. In 1854, a branch Mint opened in San Francisco to convert the miners’ gold into coins. By the end of that year, the San Francisco Mint produced $4,084,207 in gold coins.
Gold fever spread to Colorado in 1858, bringing hundreds of people to settle around the new city of Denver. In 1862, Congress approved a branch Mint in Denver and bought the building of Clark, Gruber and Company, a private mint. The following year, the Denver facility opened as an assay office for miners to bring gold to be melted, assayed, and cast into bars. It didn’t produce any gold coins, as was originally intended. In 1895, Congress converted the Denver facility back to a Mint, and in 1906 it produced its first gold and silver coins.
In 1864, in response to Oregon’s own gold rush, Congress authorized a branch Mint in Dalles City, OR and constructed a building. However, no minting or assaying duties were ever performed. Congress gave the building to the state in 1875 to use for educational purposes.
The country’s largest silver strike, referred to as the Comstock Lode, started in Nevada in 1859. Congress authorized a branch Mint in nearby Carson City. The Carson City Mint opened in 1870 to accept deposits from the Comstock Lode and to mint coins. During its operation, it produced eight different coin denominations. Congress withdrew its mint status in 1899 when the Comstock’s ore declined, but it continued as an assay office until 1933.
Gold and silver pouring in from strikes throughout the West created the need for assay offices around the country to assess and process the metal ore. Most closed in the early 1900s when the metal deposits fizzled out. The New York Assay Office in Manhattan was the notable exception; it stayed in operation for almost 130 years, finally closing in 1982.
DENVER MINT

1858: Gold discovered in Colorado
1862: Congress establishes a Denver Mint
1863: Denver facility opens as an assay office
1895: Denver Assay Office becomes a Mint
1904: Denver Mint moves to new building
1906: Coin production begins
1922: Gangsters steal $200,000 in $5 bills
1934: Denver receives a third of the country's gold
1972: Denver Mint added to National Register of Historic Places
2000: Record coin production
2006: 100th anniversary of coin production

A Taste of Denver was in the process of setting up in a park near the state capital. Party time this weekend . . . .

Colorado Museum of History – well worth the visit – from beer - to the indigenous Ute and Arapahoe -  to the history of Chicano’s  - to Bent’s Fort to the Sand Creek Massacre to silver mining – to 100 years of history – to art –   A well spent 2 hours.

Lunch at the Yard House.

Coors Field was hosting a Colorado Rockies game less than a mile walk but I’ve been there before – so I decided to go a a steak – plenty of steakhouses in downtown Denver.  Decided to go to the Palm Restaurant for a filet – pricey but delicious.  
THIS IS A BIG DEAL

NGAUS and the adjutants general of the 54 states, territories and the District of Columbia are standing against proposed legislation that attempts to negatively change the National Guard.
NGAUS MG Dunbar
The debate over three provisions of the Senate version of the fiscal 2020 National Defense Authorization Act came to a head at the 141st General Conference & Exhibition in Denver.
Maj. Gen. Matt Quinn, the president of the Adjutants General Association of the United States, strongly opposed the provisions during his remarks on Monday, near the end of the four-day event. The theme of the annual conference was The National Guard: An American Treasure.  
He said opposing the legislation is one of the top priorities of AGAUS.
“We as a body have got to get in front of these destructive legislative items that would result in a weakened National Guard, a weakened national treasure,” said Quinn, the Montana adjutant general.
The three provisions, sections 1036, 1037 and 1038, would grant new powers to the National Guard Bureau.
NGAUS is also opposed to the provisions, said retired Brig. Gen. J. Roy Robinson, the NGAUS president, who added that the language was written without input of the adjutants general or the nation’s governors.
Section 1036 would grant the NGB chief inspection authority over Guard finances that come from the federal government.
“Currently, our Army and Air Force have inspection authority over our states. As adjutants general, we welcome that oversight and work to ensure the federal requirements are met within our states,” Quinn said. “We are manned and we are equipped by the U.S. Army and the U.S. Air Force. We go to war with the U.S. Army and U.S. Air Force. So who should have inspection authority over the states? The U.S. Army and U.S. Air Force. Not a bureau, created and authorized as a channel of communication between the states and the Pentagon and Capitol Hill.
“They are not a command organization. They are a bureau with well-intended Guard men and women from our states, but who should not aim to be a command element of our National Guard,” he added.
Section 1037 would expand the authority of the president, in cases in which a state National Guards fails to comply with federal law and policy, to limit or completely bar federal funds from by the state and withdraw federal recognition of Guard officers and/or units.
The president, who can delegate that authority to the defense secretary, would only be required to inform leaders of the House and Senate Armed Services committees and would not need to ask permission to bar funds or withdraw recognition.
Section 1038 would fully remove the authority of governors to nominate the property and fiscal officer for their state and would require those officers not have worked within a state they are assigned for the previous three years.
Quinn said the provision essentially builds a brick wall around the entire property and fiscal officer organization in a state, placing it under NGB. He described the proposal as “insane.”
“Do you all think that language came from Capitol Hill? No. It came from the National Guard Bureau, our channel of communication to Capitol Hill,” Quinn said. “And I’m forced to ask, does that language benefit the soldiers and airmen of our states, territories and the District of Columbia? Or does it simply serve to move NGB into a position of greater control over our states.
“Look around this room,” he added to the officers gathered in Denver’s Colorado Convention Center. “Are we organized by NGB regions? No. We are organized by states, territories and the District of Columbia and that’s the way we should remain.”
Gen. Joseph Lengyel, the NBG chief, had an opportunity to address leaders’ concerns over the provisions earlier in the conference.
Speaking to attendees on Saturday, Lengyel was asked about the provisions during a Q&A session following his remarks.
He said the provisions sounded reasonable, but that the decision ultimately lies with Congress.
“If Congress wants me to have that oversight authority and responsibility then they have to give me those authorities,” he said.
Said Quinn, “We cannot let a few who don’t respect what we represent change us to what they believe we should be."
“What happens to a treasure when it is squandered or neglected or buried?  Forgotten, it is lost. That’s exactly why you all have this organization, our NGAUS, and our Adjutants Guard Association, fighting each and every day to ensure our national treasure is not squandered by poor legislation or poor decisions at the national level that risk our National Guards of the 54,” he said.
My thought – when asked by the coach to go in, a player will hardly ever say no.  Here ‘big army’ may have planted a seed and NGB seeing an opportunity to control - more authority – after all it has ‘a seat at the table’ moves forward to Congress without consulting the States.  See what 4 stars and an ‘operational force’ get you?

There was discussion about this and the changing of the National Guard logo from the minuteman at the Retiree Caucus on Sunday 1 SEP 19.  The AGAUS did not stand firm against the changing of the logo.

OCTOBER 11, 2019 Friday
WEATHER: a fine day  

TRAVEL:  Erie, PA to Auburn, NY- a drive of over 213 miles   I drove 8 ½ hours yesterday, 523 miles Stayed at a Hilton Home 2 Suites.

Harriet Tubman
410 HARRIET TUBMAN NATIONAL HISTORICAL PARK, Auburn, NY
Established by President Barack Obama on January 10, 2017 (3 days before he left office)  in Auburn, NY, Harriet Tubman National Historical Park is located at the site where Tubman lived and worshiped, caring for family members and other formerly enslaved people seeking safe haven in the North.

Thompson Memorial AME Church
& Parsonage under renovation by
the National Park Service
Harriet Tubman has long been associated with her extraordinary work with abolitionist causes and as the Underground Railroad's most famous "conductor." Her heroic efforts in personally leading approximately 70 people out of slavery to freedom in the North defined her as the "Moses of her People."

The Harriet Tubman National Historical Park includes the Thompson Memorial African Methodist Episcopal Zion Church that Tubman helped raise funds to build. Both buildings are currently uninhabitable and require substantial repair and renovations prior to being returned to public uses. We expect to have the parsonage (home) building repaired and serviceable as a NPS visitor support service center during the winter of 2019. NPS is undertaking a Historic Structures and Finishes Study and limited emergency stabilization of the church building in order to help guide appropriate repairs and future restoration of this iconic building.
Tubman Home for the Aged
no pictures allowed inside
Harriet Tubman Grave Site
Fort Hill Cemetery
The Harriet Tubman Visitor Center, the Tubman Home for the Aged, and the Harriet Tubman Residence are also part of the park and sit on a roughly 32 acre campus on South Street. These three sites are operated by National Park Service partner, The Harriet Tubman Home, Inc. The residence is viewed from the exterior only and access to the Home for the Aged is by guided tour. There is a fee for this tour and tours begin at the Harriet Tubman Visitor Center.
A related Tubman site that lies outside of the national historical park is the Fort Hill Cemetery where Tubman is buried. It is operated independently from the national historical park.


OCTOBER 12, 2019 Monday
WEATHER:  another fine day

TRAVEL:  Auburn, NY to Hopewell Furnace NHS to Edgar Allan Poe NHS to Kosciuzko NHS to Marianist Community in Philadelphia

Hopewell - still hard to locate

19 HOPEWELL FURNACE National Historic Site
I had visited here on Monday  May 6, 2014.  All the exhibits were open, however the Visitor Center is CLOSED Monday and Tuesday.  I did not get a NPS Passport Stamp.  This visit was solely to get the stamp while enroute to Philadelphia. I watched the video at the VC.


Quote the raven "Nevermore"
The Poe house is in the background








20 EDGAR ALLAN POE National Historic Site
I had visited here on Tuesday, May 7, 2014.  It was about a one mile walk from Independence Hall and of course this site is only open on weekends.  So this time I actually entered the house, got th Passposrt Stamp, viewed the exhibits and watched a video.



Kosciuszko - the conrer
building with a small museum
on the lower level
and the apartment he rented
on an upper floor
22 THADDEUS KOSCIUSZKO National Historic Site
This is smallest site administered by the National Park Service, and only open for limited hours on Saturday and Sunday. Just under a mile walk from Independence Hall.  Today was a Saturday so I did get to gain entry, view exhibits, got the Passport Stamp, saw a video and the one room apartment rented by Thaddeus Kosciuszko.  I first visited here on Tuesday, May 7, 2014. It was CLOSED.






OCTOBER 13, 2019 Sunday

Mass was said by Fr. Pat in the chapel of the Marianist Community.  In addition to Pat there were myself, Jack and Bob – a pleasant experience.  The gospel and readings referenced  the 10 lepers and how only one came back to ‘thank Jesus’ after being cleansed

View of downtown Philadelphia
 from the Art Museum's plaza
Philadelphai Art Museumn
Brunch at the Faire on Fairmount Street and a visit to the Philadelphia Art  Museum.  We viewed some Impressionists – cubists modern and contemporary and took guided tour through that same area and a special architectural tour of the bulding..




First State
my second visit here
and it's CLOSED
OCTOBER 14, 2019 Monday
Columbus Day
WEATHER:   partly cloudy 68

TRAVEL:  Philadelphia to First State to Great Egg Harbor to Carllsle to Gettysburg.

118 FIRST STATE NATIONAL HISTORIC PARK, New Castle, DE
I visited here on Oct 12, 2014 – it was CLOSED.  So today I deliberately delayed my visit to ensure it was open – it was CLOSED.  Quiet and peaceful – a nice short walk.  Still do not have the Passport Stamp after two visits.




411 GREAT EGG HARBOR NATIONAL SCENIC and RECREATIONAL RIVER
Great Egg Harbor - covers a lot of territory

There are no Visitor Centers administered by the National Park Service.
The mailing address is:
Great Egg Harbor National Scenic and Recreational River
200 Chestnut Street

Philadelphia , PA 19106

I had originally thought I could visit the Park Service’s headquarters in Philadelphia but, I’m there over a weekend and Monday October 14, is Columbus Day – a Federal Holiday - I doubt that the administrative types will be in the office.  On line, the locally run Fox Nature Center indicated it would be open and it was . . . . hence  - I officially visited my 411th site run by the National Park Service and got the Passport Stamp – a nice place and a beautiful day.

Great Egg Harobor
Entrance sign
Estelle Manor
The Great Egg Harbor River begins in suburban towns and meanders for 59 miles,draining 304 square miles of pristine wetlands in the heart of New Jersey's Pinelands Reserve (the famous "Pine Barrens") on its way to the Atlantic Ocean. Known locally as the "Great Egg," the river is close to Philadelphia, Pennsylvania; Trenton and Camden, New Jersey; and Wilmington, Delaware.

The Great Egg Harbor River is a 55.0-mile-long (88.5 km) river in southern New Jersey in the United States. It is one of the major rivers that traverse the largely pristine Pinelands, draining 308 square miles (800 km2) of wetlands into the Atlantic Ocean at Great Egg Harbor, from which it takes its name. At river location in Estell Manor Park.
The River gradually widens as it picks up the waters of 17 tributaries on its way to Great Egg Harbor and the Atlantic Ocean. Established by Congress in 1992, nearly all of this 129-mile river system rests within the Pinelands National Reserve. This National Park Service unit is unusual in that local jurisdictions continue to administer the lands.
Local Partners & Information Resources:

Atlantic County             Burlington County        Camden County  Cape May County     Ocean County


Estell Manor Park, is located 3.5 miles South of Mays Landing, New Jersey, off of Route 50. It is approximately 17 miles west of Atlantic City. There is a stamper for Passport Stamp Books at the Fox Nature Center,

History

After the Native Americans, this was land owned by the Estell family and was the site of a glassworks in the 1800's, then became the site of a munitions plant during World War I. After 70 years, the forest has reclaimed this area, and is now home to an incredible diversity of plants and animals.

The Warren E. Fox Nature Center is located within Estell Manor Park. This is the headquarters for the park system and where most of our environmental education and recreation programs are held. The center has environmental and live animal displays, as well as maps and brochures, restroom facilities, and environmental information.



OCTOBER 14-17, 2019
WEATHER:   14 Oct Monday a pleasant drive – mid 60’s sunny; 15 Oct Tuesday a beautiful day for walking; 16 Oct cloudy and rain from 9 to 5

TRAVELArrive Monday 14 October from Philadelphia with stops at First State National Monument, Great Egg Harbor National Scenic River and Carlisle, PA.  Toured the battlefield for the next 3 days (Tuesday, Wedensday & Thrusday)..  Stayed at Hilton Garden InnGettysburg Monday and Tuesday. Wednesday in Carlisle.

17 GETTYSBURG NATIONAL BATTLEFIELD – Gettysburg, PA
I’ve lost count of the number of times I’ve visited Gettysburg and walked the battlefield – I stopped counting at 75 – I believe I’m over a 100 visits – there is always something more to learn or to relearn.

Tuesday – in the morning I walked the Federal Cemetery Ridge gun line from Cemetlery Hill to the end of McGivelry’s guns; in the afternoon I walked the Confederate gun line along Seminary Ridge.  Finally, I ate at Ernie’s Texas Lunch – outstainidng hamburgers.   Late afternoon was a visit to Cemetery Hill and  a review of the action on the evening of July 2. A full day of walking.
Wednesday – rain all day - I followed the route of Lee’s Retreat to Williamsport – it rained for 2 days during Lee’s Retreat..


Lee's Retreat from Gettysburg


16 CHESAPEAKE & OHIO CANAL NATIONAL HISTORICAL PARK, Williamsport, WV
Chesapeake & Ohio
Canal - my second visit
and CLOSED on a day it
should be open
My first visit here was April 30, 2014 it was raining and the Visitor Center was CLOSED. 

Today was a Wednesday and the VC should have been open – it was CLOSED and it was raining. Still do not have the Passport Stamp after two visits.

Falling Waters, WV
Following the defeat at Gettysburg, the Confederates began retreating through Washington County on the evening of July 4 in a pouring rain.  A flooded Potomac River prevented their immediate escape.  There were several skirmishes as Federal cavalry pursued the Confederate retrograde.  The Confederates built a very strong defensive perimeter around Williamsport and  Falling Waters as they rebuilt a bridge and waited for the Potomac’s water to fall.  Lee tactically lost the Battle of Gettysburg but he may have won strategically because his army escaped to fight for almost 2 more years. The campaign ended July 14, 1863.

Thursday - - a morning visit to the Gettysburg Visitor Center Museum and a pleasant lunch at O’Rourkes in Gettysburg with a couple I had met the previous evening at Brick’s in Carlisle.


OCTOBER 17-19, 2019
WEATHER:   17 Oct Thursday windy, clear and in the 50’s; 18 Oct Friday

TRAVEL:  Carlisle and the USAWC are about 30 miles north of Gettysburg.  Travel to Carlisle via roughly the same route Confederate General Ewel  brought his III Corps to Gettysburg in July 1963.

UNITED STATES ARMY WAR COLLEGE (USAWC)    CLASS of 1999
20 YEAR REUNION, Carlisle, PA

October 17, 2019 USAWC - Thursday
1630-2100     Registration & Welcome Event Letort View Community Center(LVCC)
                      Buffet begins at 1800 -  a good evening about 45 in attendance (incl spouses) about 1/3 DDE and 2/3 Resident to include International Fellows from Greece and Australia.  Each of use gave a short introduction of self to include Seminar and activities since graduation.  A lot were now “scum sucking contractors.”


October 18, 2019 USAWC - Friday
0815               Bus from Army Heritage & Educaiton Center (AHEC)
0830               Coffee
0900               Welcome
0915-1030     “Then and Now” Briefing – this was a breakout for the DDE and Resident students – we wrote 30 papers of 750-1500 words each the current standard is 8 papers of 500-750 words each . . . . and these guys get a MSS – we didn’t
1030-1045     Break
1045-1145     Windshield Tour of Carlisle Barracks with stop at new housing
1145-1300     Lunch/Tour of Root Hall/Gift Shop
1310-1345     Memorial Tribute to deceased classmates
1400-1600     Tour of AHEC – this was the low point of the day – the 20 or 30 something staffer was a rude “I don’t have time for you unless you conform to MY schedule and MY agenda and on MY time” know-it-all.  I did make a contact with the reference desk regarding research for the Battle of Perryville.  
1830-2200     Reunion Dinner
                        Cocktails 1830/Dinner 1930  (Sport Coat)


October 19, 2019 USAWC - Saturday
Optional Activities
0830-1630     Gettysburg National Military Park – a small group of 14 including the guide – (5 couples 3 singles) 30% DDE 70% Resident.  The tour guide was COL (Ret)             amember of the War College staff. 

Travel to Gettysburg
Mount Holly Springs - South Moutnain
story of perpear mill LTG Ewell's order of blank forms
apples orchards - green
0930 Buford's Status
1015 Tower - statue of "Sadie" the dog
1045 North Caroline Monument
1113 Longstreet's Towe
1200 Lunch - Movie - Cylcorama
1395 Deveil Dens - Roundtop - 20th Maine
1445 Wheatefield 'cornfield' bloodiest US acres ever

                         

1730 Mass at Our Lady Queen of Peace Catholic Community at the chapel inside the gate of Carlisle Barracks – presided by what I can only surmise was a Catholic Chaplain.  Readings where Joshua won the battle only while Moses’ arms were raised – similar gospel.  I’m wrting this later so I have forgotten the highlights of the homily – but it was the feast of the North American Martyrs and the priest had relics (pieces of bone from 3 of the French Jesuits who were martyred)  -  he offered a special individual blessing to all after the mass.   

OCTOBER 20, 2019 Sunday
WEATHER:  raining
TRAVEL: Sunday - Carlisle to the Hampton Inn Dulles Airport South, Chantilly, VA

121 MANASSAS NATIONAL BATTLEFIELD

Sunday – Welcome Dinner (pizza) with the Kenosha Civil War Museum.  Program by Paige Gibbons Backus, Historic Site Manager for Prince William County, VA  Ben La Mond Historical Site, 10321 Sudley Manor Dr, Masassas, VA

“Revealing the Chaos & Carnage of the Hospitals of First Manassas”
·         - 3,500 casualties at 1st Manassas  - an unprecedented amount for a battle – there regimental surgeons were unprepared for such carnage
·        -  Not many records kept
·        - Dr. Hunter McGuire treated T.E.Jackson for a finger wound at a makeshift hospital site near Holcombs Run
·         - Almost all the buildings in the area were used as hospitals, Wilmer House, Stone House (2nd Manassas) Sudley Church, Chinn Ridge, Ben La Mond
·         - MAJ Sullivan Ballou was treated at Sudley Church (US Hospital)
·         - Kirby Smith WIA was treated at Ben La Mond Hospital

October 21, 2019 MONDAY
121 MANASSAS NATIONAL BATTLEFIELD

Manassas - Stone Bridge
Manassa Stone Bridge - map
On July 18, 1861 McDowell’s Union Army reached Centreville. Five miles ahead a small meandering stream named Bull Run crossed the route of the Union advance, and there guarding the fords from Union Mills to the Stone Bridge waited 22,000 Southern troops under the command of Gen. Pierre G.T. Beauregard. McDowell first attempted to move toward the Confederate right flank, but his troops were checked at Blackburn’s Ford.  He then spent the next two days scouting the Southern left flank. In the meantime, Beauregard asked the Confederate government at Richmond for help. Gen. Joseph E. Johnston, stationed in the Shenandoah Valley at Harper’s Ferry with 10,000 Confederate troops, was ordered to support Beauregard if possible. Johnston gave an opposing Union army the slip and, employing the Manassas Gap Railroad, started his brigades toward Manassas Junction. Most of Johnston’s troops arrived at the junction on July 20 and 21, some marching directly into battle.

Manassa Battlefield - Manassas I most of the action occured East (right) of Sudley Road

On the morning of July 21, McDowell sent his attack columns in a long march north towards Sudley Springs Ford. This route took the Federals around the Confederate left. To distract the Southerners, McDowell ordered a diversionary attack where the Warrenton Turnpike crossed Bull Run at the Stone Bridge. At 5:30a.m. the deep-throated roar of a 30-pounder Parrott rifle shattered the morning calm, and signaled the start of the battle.

McDowell’s new plan depended on speed and surprise, both difficult with inexperienced troops. Valuable time was lost as the men stumbled through the darkness along narrow roads. Confederate Col. Nathan Evans, commanding a brigade at the Stone Bridge, soon realized that the attack on his front was only a diversion. Leaving a small force to hold the bridge, Evans rushed the remainder of his command to Matthews Hill in time to check McDowell’s lead unit. But Evans’ force was too small to hold back the Federals for long.
First Manassas - Flight From Matthews Hill

Soon brigades under Barnard Bee and Francis Bartow marched to Evans’ assistance. But even with these reinforcements, the thin gray line collapsed and Southerners fled in disorder toward Henry Hill. Attempting to rally his men, Bee used Gen. Thomas J. Jackson’s newly arrived brigade as an anchor. Pointing to Jackson, Bee shouted, There stands Jackson like a stone wall! Rally behind the Virginians!” Generals Johnston and Beauregard then arrived on Henry Hill, where they assisted in rallying shattered brigades and redeploying fresh units that were marching to the point of danger.


About noon, the Federals stopped their advance to reorganize for a new attack. The lull lasted for about an hour, giving the Confederates enough time to reform their lines. Then the fighting resumed, each side trying to force the other off Henry Hill. The battle continued until just after 4p.m., when fresh Southern units crashed into the Union right flank on Chinn Ridge, causing McDowell’s tired and discouraged soldiers to withdraw.
First Manassas - Arrival of Jefferson Davis
At first the withdrawal was orderly. Screened by the regulars, the three-month volunteers retired across Bull Run, where they found the road to Washington jammed with the carriages of congressmen and others who had driven out to Centreville to watch the fight. Panic now seized many of the soldiers and the retreat became a rout. The Confederates, though bolstered by the arrival of President Jefferson Davis on the field just as the battle was ending, were too disorganized to follow up on their success. Daybreak on July 22 found the defeated Union army back behind the defenses of Washington.

First Bull Run  21 JUL 1861 – Interpretive Guide Hank Elliot, NPS – “needless to say” Hank knows his sutff, an excellent guide, interesting, and kept the patter up
NPS Ranger - Hank Elliot at Holcomb Branch
0800   Leave Hampton Inn – Dulles Airport South, Chantilly, VA
0815   Manassas Battlefield Visitor Center
0900   Video at Visitor Center – a 45 minute film produced in 2002
1015   STOP 1 – Stone Bridge

1115   STOP 2 – Matthews Hill

Lunch at Golden Corral, Manassas – 1st visit to one of these – an excellent almost endless buffet

1330   STOP 3 – Henry House Hill

0000   STOP 4 – Holcomb Branch

1630   Return to Manassas Battlefield Visitor Center

Dinner at Okra’s, Manassas – Outstanding!  An excellent dinner - with choice of appetizers, 4 main courses and dessert.  Cajun cooking. 

1950   Return to Hampton Inn

October 22, 2019 TUESDAY
121 MANASSAS NATIONAL BATTLEFIELD
It was foggy all morning with rain all afternoon

Cedar Mountain - I hadn't been to the sight before
Battle of Cedar Mountain - August 9, 1862 a prelude to Second Manassas

Scott Patchin
Cedar Mountain
yes it was raining
and very foggy

Second Bull Run  - Guide Scott Patchan
Today was a bus ride – because of the weather we may have deviated from the plan . . . and spent at least 5 hours of the day riding on a bus – no maps – except for Cedar Mountain, I had been to all these places before . . . . not much patter on the bus but the route gave me a better understading of what preceded Second Manassas
STOP 1   Cedar Mountain
STOP 2   Bristoe Station
STOP 3   Thoroughfare Gap
Lunch at City Grille, Manassas – the sandwiches were delicious with outstanding service.
STOP 4   Manassas Junction
STOP 5   Brawner’s Farm
Dinner at Firebirds, Gainesville, VA – excellent meal and service.


Bristoe Station - more known for its role in 1864 than in 1862 - I had been here before - a nice park

 October 23, 2019 WEDNESDAY
121 MANASSAS NATIONAL BATTLEFIELD

Federal forces in northern Virginia were organized into the Army of Virginia under the command of Gen. John Pope, who arrived with a reputation freshly won in the war's western theater. Gambling that McClellan would cause no further trouble around Richmond, Lee sent Stonewall Jackson's corps northward to "suppress" Pope. Jackson clashed indecisively with part of Pope's troops at Cedar Mountain on August 9. Meanwhile, learning that McClellan’s  Army of the Potomac was withdrawing by water to join Pope, Lee marched with Gen. James Longstreet's corps to bolster Jackson. On the Rapidan, Pope successfully blocked Lee's attempts to gain the tactical advantage, and then withdrew his men north of the Rappahannock River. Lee knew that if he was to defeat Pope he would have to strike before McClellan's army arrived in northern Virginia. On August 25 Lee boldly started Jackson's corps on a march of over 50 miles, around the Union right flank to strike at Pope's rear.
Second Manassas - Map at Brawner Farm
Two days later, Jackson's veterans seized Pope's supply depot at Manassas Junction. After a day of wild feasting, Jackson burned the Federal supplies and moved to a position in the woods at Groveton near the old Manassas battlefield.
Pope, stung by the attack on his supply base, abandoned the line of the Rappahannock and headed towards Manassas to "bag" Jackson. At the same time, Lee was moving northward with Longstreet's corps to reunite his army. On the afternoon of August 28, to prevent the Federal commander's efforts to concentrate at Centreville and bring Pope to battle, Jackson ordered his troops to attack a Union column as it marched past on the Warrenton Turnpike. This savage fight at Brawner's Farm lasted until dark.
Convinced that Jackson was isolated, Pope ordered his columns to converge on Groveton. He was sure that he could destroy Jackson before Lee and Longstreet could intervene. On the 29th Pope's army found Jackson's men posted along an unfinished railroad grade, north of the turnpike. All afternoon, in a series of uncoordinated attacks, Pope hurled his men against the Confederate position. In several places the northerners momentarily breached Jackson's line, but each time were forced back. During the afternoon, Longstreet's troops arrived on the battlefield and, unknown to Pope, deployed on Jackson's right, overlapping the exposed Union left. Lee urged Longstreet to attack, but "Old Pete" demurred. The time was just not right, he said.
Map - Manassas Battlefield National Battlefield

The morning of August 30 passed quietly. Just before noon, erroneously concluding the Confederates were retreating, Pope ordered his army forward in "pursuit". The pursuit, however, was short-lived. Pope found that Lee had gone nowhere. Amazingly, Pope ordered yet another attack against Jackson's line. Fitz-John Porter's corps, along with part of McDowell's, struck Starke's division at the unfinished railroad's "Deep Cut." The southerners held firm, and Porter's column was hurled back in a bloody repulse.
Seeing the Union lines in disarray, Longstreet pushed his massive columns forward and staggered the Union left. Pope's army was faced with annihilation. Only a heroic stand by northern troops, first on Chinn Ridge and then once again on Henry Hill, bought time for Pope's hard-pressed Union forces. Finally, under cover of darkness the defeated Union army withdrew across Bull Run towards the defenses of Washington. Lee's bold and brilliant Second Manassas campaign opened the way for the south's first invasion of the north, and a bid for foreign intervention.

Second Bull Run  Guide Scott Patchan – today was a good day – I learned much about Second Manassas – even though I have walked the field several times the presence of a guide brought much more understanding to the battle

0840 Stop 1 - Sudley Methodist Church and a walk along the unfinished railroad 
1010 Stop 2 - Visitor Center
1050 Stop 3 - Confederate Cemetery – walk to back of cemetery
1115 Stop 4 - Deep Cut –walk unfinished railroad 
1235 Stop 5 - Picnic Area - Box Lunch on Battlefield
1330 Stop 6 - End of New York Avenue circle
1415 Stop 7 - Chinn Ridge
1500 Stop 8 - Henry Hill


The tour actually ended today but I decided to stay another evening at the Hampton Inn Dulles Airport South.   Unfortunately, the promise of Hilton personnel (poor planning – not listening to customer queries) to stay in the same room was untrue – I had to move this morning  – unfortunate customer service.

OCTOBER 24, 2019 Thursday
WEATHER:   41 and clear at 5 am Chantilly, VA a high of 72 by the time I reached Hampton, VA

TRAVEL:  Manassas National Batllefield, Fredericksburg-Spotsylvania National Chancellorsville-Wilderness , Joint Base Langley-Eustis

136 FREDERICKSBURG-SPOTSYLVANIA COUNTY
BATTLEFIELDS - Fredericksburg, VA
CHANCELLORSVILLE-WILDERNESS, VA

Last visited November 7, 2014 . . . several major Civil War battles are covered in this park.  There are two major Visitor Centers one in Fredericksburg focusing on the battle of Fredericksburg; the other is on the Chancellorsville battlefield focusing on the Chancellorsville, Wilderness and Spotsylvania Courthouse battlefields.  I have spent several days on each of these battlefields in the past.





Langley NASA Reearch Center - entrance



NASA's Langley Research Center is comprised of nearly 200 facilities on 764 acres in Hampton, Virginia, and employs about 3,400 civil servants and contractors. Langley works to make revolutionary improvements to aviation, expand understanding of Earth’s atmosphere and develop technology for space exploration.  It is adjacent ot Langley Air Force Base.





Langley AFB
Commanded by a Colonel, the 633rd Air Base Wing is comprised of three groups that provide installation support to more than 9,000 military and civilian personnel including Headquarters Air Combat Command and three operational wings. The Wing provides mission-ready expeditionary Airmen to combatant commanders in support of joint and combined operations worldwide. The activation of the 633 ABW as the new host unit for Langley Air Force Base, Va., Jan. 7, 2010, was the first step toward Joint Base Langley-Eustis.

Air Force Inn – Joint Base Langley-Eustis, Hampton, VA  -  Langley is home to NASA Research, the air base is home to the 633rd Air Base Wing.   I stayed at Lawton Hall, in a 2 room “VIP” suite just across from the South Branch of the Back River.


OCTOBER 26, 2019 Saturday
WEATHER:   58 at 5 am partly cloudy, high of 73

TRAVEL:  Langley AFB to Petersburg National Battlefield to Fort Lee, VA


139 PETERSBURG NATIONAL BATTLEFIELD, Petersburg, VA



Last visited on November 13, 2014 . . . . the Siege of Petersburg is the longest military event of the Civil War.  Nine and a half months, 70,000 casualties, the suffering of civilians, thousands of U. S. Colored Troops fighting for the freedom of their race, and the decline of Gen. Robert E. Lee's Army of Northern Virginia all describe the Siege of Petersburg. It was here Gen. Ulysses S. Grant cut off all of Petersburg's supply lines ensuring the fall of Richmond on April 3, 1865. Six days later, Lee surrendered at Appomattox Court House.

Petersburg -example of earthworks - Stop3

There are 3 Visitor Centers – Eastern Front, Western Front, Grant’s Headquarters at City Point and there is a Five Forks Contact Station..  I only visited the Eastern Front VC and watched the video.  I drove the 8 stops along the Eastern Front. There were few people in the park – a few walking their dogs – a beautiful day for a walk and there are plenty of hiking trails.

Stop 1 – Confederate Battery 5.  One of the strongest works on the original Confederate defense line (the Dimmock Line).  Federal troops captured it on June 15, 1864.  A trail leads to the “Dictator”, a mortar used to shell Confederate batteries north of the Appomattox River.

Stop 2 – Confederate Battery 8.  Captured by black Union troops, this battery was renamed Fort Friend for the Friend House located nearby.  It played a major role during the Battle of Fort Stedman in March 1865.

Stop 3 – Confederate Battery 9.  Black troops captured this position during the first days fighting.  The site features reconstructed examples of siege fortifications and related structures..  A trail leads to a wayside on Meade Station, an important supply and hospital depot on the US Military Railroad built during the siege.

Stop 4 – Harrison Creek. Driven from portions of the Dimmock Line in the opening battle on June 15, 1964, Confederate forces dug in along the west bank of Harrison Creek for two days before withdrawing closer to Petersburg.  In March 1865 Lee’s last offensive movement (the Battle of Fort Stedman) was halted along this stream.



Stop 5 – Fort StedmanLee attacked this Union stronghold on March 25, 1865 to try to relieve pressure west of the city.  A loop trail leads to Colquitt’s Salient, where the attack originated.  The trail passes the monument to the 1st Maine Heavy Artillery.

Stop 6 – Fort Haskell.  Here, Union artillery, along with heavy infantry fire stopped the Confederates’ southward advance from Fort Stedman.
Peterssburg - Fort Haskell - Stop 6

Stop 7 – Fort Morton.  From here at what was then known as the “14 gun battery”, MG Ambrose Burnside, commander of the Union's IX Corps watched the Battle of the Crater.

Stop 8 – The Crater. On July 30, 1864, at a part of the line known as Elliott’s Salient, Union troops exploded a mine under the Confederate battery attempting to create a breakthrough into Petersburg.  The follow-up attack by Burnside’s  IX Corps failed miserably.
 .
 

IHG Housing, Fort Lee, VA  - a seven story complex with two large wings, I stayed on the 7th floor in a 2 room suite with kitchen (refrigerator & dishwasher) for $90 plus tax, .  There is a 27 hole golf course, the Cardinal Golf Club, that few people were on.

SUNDAY NIGHT FOOTBALL:  PACKERS 31 CHIEFS 24
That puts the pack at 7:1 in the NFC North one game ahead of the Vikings.  The game didn’t start here until after 2030 – I didn’t stay up to watch the game.


OCTOBER 28, 2019 Monday
WEATHER:   63 at 0500 –a high of 86 and clear
SUNRISE:  0736            SUNSET: 1836 Beaufort, SC

TRAVEL:  Sunday travel Fort Lee, VA to Hampton Inn, Beaufort SC

412 RECONSTRUCTION ERA NATIONAL MONUMENT, Beaufort, SC
Reconstuction Era
Visitor Center
CLOSED - Monday
Unfortunately, the Visitor Center is CLOSED on Sunday and Monday.  I arrived here on Sunday and will leave Tuesday morning.  Reconstruction Era National Monument consists of the Visitor Center at the Old Beaufort Fire House, 706 Craven St and three partner sites:  Brick Baptist Church (not open to the public),  Camp Saxton Site (located on the campus of the Beaufort Naval Hospital not open to the public) and the Penn School National Historic Landmark District located at 16 Penn Circle West, St. Helena Island, SC.  Previous to September 23, 2019 the Penn School was also closed on Sundays and Mondays. 

Recontruction Era
Brick Baptist Church
Enslaved people built the Brick Baptist Church on St. Helena Island in 1855 as a place of worship for white planters, several of whom are buried in the small cemetery next to the sanctuary. Fingerprints of the enslaved who made the bricks can still be seen in some of the walls. After the Union Army liberated the sea islands, the church became a haven for enslaved people, and, in 1862, Laura Towne and Ellen Murray established what became the Penn School in this sanctuary.

BRICK BAPTIST CHURCH
Today, the exterior of the church is preserved by the park, but the interior remains an active church congregation, and is not typically open to visitor access. If visiting the Brick Baptist Church site, please be respectful of the congregation and church activities that may be taking place.
Camp Saxton was established in 1862 near the Smith Plantation on Port Royal Island. It was home to the 1st South Carolina Infantry (later renamed the 33rd United States Colored Troops). On January 1, 1863, the Emancipation Proclamation was read to the men of the 1st South Carolina Infantry, along with hundreds of other formerly enslaved people, at the site of Camp Saxton in a stand of live oak trees.

This area is preserved as part of Reconstruction Era National Historical Park. However, it is located on the campus of the Beaufort Naval Hospital, an active duty military installation. As a result, this area is not currently open to public access.
Reconstruciton Era
Penn Center
NPS Banner
Reconstruciton Era
Penn Center

THE PENN CENTER

Penn Center is a cultural and educational center located on St. Helena Island. It evolved from the Penn School, one of the first southern schools organized by northern missionaries for formerly enslaved people. During the modern civil rights movement Penn School became a site where the Southern Christian Leadership Conference (SCLC) conducted its Citizenship Education Program. During the 1960s, Penn Center hosted Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr.,and the SCLC staff as they planned the March on Washington and the Poor People’s Campaign. The Penn School was first established in 1862 and lies within the boundaries of the national historic landmark district.

Reconstruciton Era
Reconstruciton Era














I walked the campus and viewed most of the buildings from the exterior. The Welcoms center had a video explaining the background of Penn Center
DARRAH HALL
Reconstruciton Era - Penn Center - Darrah Hall
Darrah Hall is the oldest structure on the Penn Center campus, dating to the end of the Reconstruction era. It is the only building at Penn Center that is physically managed by the National Park Service, and is periodically open and staffed by ranger staff. Check in at the visitor center for more information.
Reconstruction Era National Monument, was established by President Barack Obama on January 12, 2017.  It recognizes the historic significance of the years between 1861 – 1898, from the early Civil War through the start of Jim Crow segregation. During this time period, the United States debated questions such as “What does freedom mean? What are the rights of citizenship, and who can be a citizen?” The country grappled with how to integrate millions of former African American slaves into society, and how to build a more united nation with free and equal citizens.

Consequently, the Thirteenth, Fourteenth, and Fifteenth Amendments were passed, permanently abolishing slavery, defining birthright citizenship and guaranteeing equal protection under the law, and prohibiting voter discrimination based on race, color, or previous condition of servitude.

Congress also passed a series of Reconstruction Acts that divided the former Confederacy into five military districts and laid out requirements for re-admittance to the Union (except Tennessee). The experience of Reconstruction, and the rebuilding of the Union following the Civil War, played out across America and resulted in changes that fundamentally altered the meaning of citizenship and the relationship between Federal and state governments. Central to this drama was the former Confederacy where social, economic, and political changes dramatically transformed the region and where major activities of and resistance to Reconstruction took place. African Americans - across America - faced steep obstacles as they attempted to claim their newly won rights. Ultimately, the unmet promises of Reconstruction led to the modern civil rights movement 100 years later.

Despite the importance of
Reconstruction, many Americans know very little about it. And what they do know is often outdated or inaccurate. Historians once portrayed the period as a failure and defined it narrowly as the years between 1865 and 1876. Now they see its broad triumphs and also its long reach.

During this period Americans debated profound questions: What did freedom mean? What kind of country would this be? What kind of political system should govern it? What were the rights of citizenship, and who could be a citizen? They struggled earnestly – if not always successfully – to build a nation of free and equal citizens. Small wonder that Reconstruction is often called the country’s Second Founding. To this day the outcomes of the vast political and social changes of the Reconstruction era remain visible across the landscape.

One place that embodies the themes of Reconstruction with special merit is Beaufort County, South Carolina. The significant historical events that transpired here make it an ideal place to tell critical national, regional and local stories of experimentation, potential transformation, accomplishment, and disappointment. In the Beaufort region, including the City of Beaufort, the town of Port Royal, and Saint Helena Island, many existing historic sites demonstrate the transformative effect of emancipation and Reconstruction.

Fort Howell
Fort Howell


FORT HOWELL, 160 Beach City Rd, Hilton Head Island
The Fort Howell site is an earthen fort constructed next to the Mitchelville settlement to protect freed slaves from recapture by Confederate troops.  The fort was manned primarily by African American soldiers.  Fort Howell was listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 2011 and today is a public park with interpretive signage.









MITCHELVILLE perhaps the first freedmen’s town established during the Civil War.  Mitchelville was laid out by the Union Army on Hilton Head Ilsand to accommodate freed slaves.  The town had a population of about 1,500 in 1862.  Civil War photographs and illustrations who a wide variery of building types and activities.   


Hilton - Ocean Oak Resort facility










Since I was on Hilton Head Island, I thought I’d pay a visit to the Hilton Grand Vacations Resort – a nice beach – nice location – not that exciting – great neighborhood.  I picked up a couple of brochures on nearby golf courses.




Hilton - Ocena Oak Resort - sand beach







OCTOBER 29, 2019 Tuesday
WEATHER:     70 at 5 am’ high of 95 in Florida – intermiittant rain on the way south

TRAVEL:  Hampton Inn, Beaufort SC to Reconstruction Era National Monument to Hilton Grand Vacations Resort - Seaworld, Orlando, FL

412 RECONSTRUCTION ERA NATIONAL MONUMENT, Beaufort, SC

I decided to not leave Beaufort until after a stop at the Visitor Center which didn’t open until 9 am.   Not much in the VC a few exhibits – no video – but, ‘oh what a tough job for the Superintendent’ to coordinate with 4 agencies (Brick church congregation, Penn Center, the Navy and the City) – give me a break.  A small, but nice VC built in less than 2 years after the site was signed into law by President Obama (2017).  I was told that Beaufort was chosen as the site for Reconstruction Era because it was literally the first area ‘freed’ by the Union.   A United States Navy fleet and United States Army expeditionary force captured Port Royal Sound, South Carolina, on November 7, 1861
Hence, the area where “reconstruction” started . . .that’s their story and their stickin’ to it.

OCTOBER 29 – NOVEMBER 23, 2019      
29 OCT      ARRIVE – Check into a 1 BR unit-Owners Reception
Weather: in the 90’s, mostly cloudy                                                                              

30 OCT W      1 mi  Ex-Read -Sun-Mass-PUBLIX-Label Pics 
Weather: 75 at 6 am partly cloudy high in the 90’s                                SUNRISE 0735  SUNSET 1842

HALLOWEEN
31 OCT Th    Mass-Read-1.25 mi EX-Sun-Shingle Creek GC-Hawks Landing  GC-Lake Buena Vista GC tee times–Disney Springs       
Weather: rain overnight, 76 at 6 am partly cloudy, in the 90’s               SUNRISE 0736  SUNSET 1841

ALL SAINTS DAY
1 NOV F Mass-PUBLIX-Read-1.5 mi EX-Read-Sun
Weather: 70 and clousy at 7 am, clear and 76 by 2 pm                          SUNRISE 0737  SUNSET 1840

2 NOV Sa 1.75 mi EX- Sun-Wal-Mart-Golf Galaxy-Shingle Creek GC-Disney Springs       
Weather: 70 at 0500 high of 88 partly coudy                                           SUNRISE 0738  SUNSET 1839

DAYLIGHT SAVINGS TIME ENDS
3 Nov Su 2.0 mi Ex-Mass-Read-Sun-Lake Buena Vista GC practice range-Packer Game     
Weather: 64 and cloudy at 0500                                                               SUNRISE 0638  SUNSET 1739

4 NOV M   Mass -DISNEY AK:Safari-MK:Pirates-AK:Nemo Musical-Lion King- Nomad Lounge-Dinosaur FP-Everest FP- Rivers of Light FP (not needed) (a lot of walking today wait times for ‘Avatar: Flight of Passage’ always in excess of 130 minutes)
Weather: mostly cloudy high in 70’s 10 minute rain at 3pm                  SUNRISE 0639  SUNSET 1738

5 NOV T  Stretch-Read-Mass-Shingle Creek GC-Ford’s Garage-Sun-Read      
Weather: 71 and clear at 6am –high of 86-T-storms 7pm                       SUNRISE 0640  SUNSET 1737

6 NOV W   1.5 mi EX-Mass-Walgreens-Read-Sun      
Weather: 73 and mostly cloudy at 7am, high of 83                                SUNRISE 0640  SUNSET 1736

7 NOV Th Stretch–Read-Hawks Landing GC-JoAnn Fabrics –USPS-Mass-PUBLIX-SUN-Disney Springs       
Weather: 72 and mostly clear at 6am;high of 87                                    SUNRISE 0641  SUNSET 1736

8 NOV F  Fly to Milwaukee LV MCO 0750-ATL-AR MKE1354    Frozen Jr 1900    
Weather: 28 and windy in the evening              SUNRISE 0642  Orlando SUNSET 1637 Burlington

9 NOV Sa  Burlington-USPS-Haircut-Pick up Blanket- Walgreens Flu Shot –start Christmas decorations-Mass-watch Avengers: End Game       
Weather: 28 in Milwaukee; 80 in Orlando          SUNRISE 0638  Burlington SUNSET 1735 Orlando

10 NOV Su   Fly to Orlando  LVE MKE0636-DTWL-AR MCO 1240  GB 24 vs Carolina 16     
Weather:  26 at 5 am; low 80’s in Orlando         SUNRISE 0642  Burlington SUNSET 1734 Orlando

VETERANS DAY        
11 NOV M  2.0 mi EX -Read-Sun- Mass USPS-Read
Weather: 62 at 6 am partly cloudy; high of 80                           SUNRISE 0644  SUNSET 1733

12 NOV T Shingle Creek GC (exchange shirt)-Mass-Lake Buena Vista GC-Disney Springs-Longhorn Steakhouse        
Weather: 62 at 6am high in mid 80’s partly cloudy                   SUNRISE 0645  SUNSET 1733

13 NOV W Mass-2.25 mi EX-Read-Move from 1 BR to 2BR
Weather: 57 at 5 am cloudy windy & cool high of 70                 SUNRISE 0646  SUNSET 1732

14 NOV Th Label Gettysburg Gun Line pics-Mass-Owner’r Reception-Disney Springs movie MIDWAY- update blog
Weather:  64 at 5 am partly cloudy, high of 75                           SUNRISE 0647  SUNSET 1732

15 NOV F Update blog-Mass-2.5 mi EX-Read-update blog    
Weather: 72 at 5 am – cloudy                                                      SUNRISE 0648  SUNSET 1731

16 NOV Sa Stretch Ex-Mass-Wash/Vacuum Car-Read-MCO-Disney Springs-Applebees         
Weather: 58 at 5 am – cloudy cool windy high low 60’s           SUNRISE 0649  SUNSET 1730

17 NOV Su.1.5 mi EX-Read-Pizza/Popcorn Owners Lounge
(alternate to Kennedy Space Center)   
Weather: 52 at 5 am cloudy windy misty-high of 62 very cool SUNRISE 0650 SUNSET 1730

18 NOV M   Animal Kingdom-Avatar: Flight of Passage-Dinosaur FP-Safari-Up: A Bird Adventure with Russell & Doug-Everest FP-Kali River Rapids
Weather: 56 at 5 am cloudy & clearing; 73 at 3 clear skies        SUNRISE 0650  SUNSET 1729

19 NOV T DISNEY Hollywood Studios-Frozen:Sing A Long-Star Tours:The Adventure Continues-Indiana Jones Stunt Spectacular FP-Oga’s Cantina-Millennium Falcon:Smuggler’s Run-Sci-Fi Café-Tower of Terror-(alternate Rock & Roller Coaster:Aerosmith-Toy Story Mania FP-Alien Swirling Saucers        
Weather: 57 at 5 am clear high of 70                                         SUNRISE 0651  SUNSET 1729

20 NOV W    DISNEY Magic Kingdom-Seven Dwarfs Mine Train-Pirates of the Caribbean-Splash Mountain FP-Pecos Bill Tall Tale Inn & Café-Disney’s Festival of Fantasy Parade-Big Thunder Mountain RR FP-Monster’s Inc. Laugh Floor-People Mover-Stitch-Tomorrowland Speedway-Mad Tea Party-Peter Pan’s Flight FP-Mickey’s Philharmagic-Big Thunder Mountain RR-Happily Ever After Fireworks  
Weather: 50 at 6 am clear high of 72                                         SUNRISE 0652  SUNSET 1729

21 NOV Th Mass-(alternate Disney Springs)-tacos-SUN-(alternate pool)-SUN-spaghetti
Weather: 57 at 7 am partly cloudy; high of 77                           SUNRISE 0653  SUNSET 1728

22 NOV F -Disney EPCOT-Soarin’-Test Track-Mexico-monorail to Disney Magic Kingdom –Big Thunder Mountain RR-Splash Mountain-Space Mountain (alternate Tomorrowland  Speedway)-monorail to Disney EPCOT-Test Track FP-Mission Space FP-Longhorn Steak house       
Weather: 59 at 7 am high in the mid-70's                                     SUNRISE 0654  SUNSET 1728


NOVEMBER 23, 2019 Saturday
WEATHER:  59 in Orlando clear – 79 in southern GA – rain & 62 in Atlanta – 65 and sunny in Oxford,AL
SUNRISE 0624 EST Orlando, FL           SUNSET 1646 CST Anniston, AL

TRAVEL:  HGVC Seaworld to MCO to HGVC Seaworld to Oxford/Anniston, AL – 525 hours; 8.5 hours; as anticipated-delays in and around Atlanta;

HOME2 Suites – Anniston, AL  WIFI works 10x better than at Hilton Grand Vacations Seaworld.  After some calls, to Hilton, management gave me my 20,000 Hilton Honors points back since I decided not to stay until Monday because Freedom Riders National Monument is not open on weekends and the weather for Perryville on Tuesday is forecasted rain.


Sacred Heart Catholic Church – 5 pm Mass – I showed up at 4 – Anniston is on CST came back at 5.  A new church but it had a ‘cold’ design feeling, but very friendly congregation.  The kneelers wer e extremely uncomfortable – I believe they may have been from an older church.  About 100 people present in church that can hold 300.  Celebrating Catholic Schools Week – students from the school were in their uniforms and sang in the choir.  Middle aged priest sang most of the mass – Kyrie, Gloria, Sanctus, Agnus Dei sung in Latin. Feast of Christ the King of the Universe – ‘remember me when you come into your Kingdom . . . today you will be with me in Paradise.’
.

NOVEMBER 24, 2019 Sunday
WEATHER:  45 & cloudy at 6 am  - 45 and clear in Danville at 5 pm
SUNRISE 0624  CST SUNSET 1646 EST

TRAVEL:  Oxford, AL to Freedom Riders National Monument to Mill Springs (KY) Battlefield (a proposed National Monument) to Richmond (KY) Battlefield to Hampton Inn, Danville, KY

413 FREEDOM RIDERS NATIONAL MONUMENT, Anniston, AL
Established by President Barack Obama on January 12, 2017, Freedom Riders National Monument shares stories of people and places that gained national attention in the fight against the injustices of Jim Crow laws and eventually led to regulations banning segregation in interstate travel.

I arrived in Oxford/Anniston, AL on Saturday November 23, 2019, after a 8 ½ drive from Orlando, FL.  I may have originally planned to stay Sunday, just to get the stamp on Monday because Freedom Riders is CLOSED on weekends.  The following is from the National Park Service website. Hours: Monday through Friday, 8 am to 5 pm.  Freedom Riders National Monument is a National Park Service unit located in Anniston, Alabama. It is a park in progress with limited services. In the coming years services will be added to the park in cooperation with our partners.

Freddom Riders
In the spring of 1961, the “Freedom Riders,” an interracial group of civil rights activists, set out to challenge discriminatory state laws and local customs requiring segregation on buses and in bus station facilities. Their journey was dramatically opposed by white supremacists who viciously attacked the Freedom Riders on multiple occasions.

The monument includes the former Greyhound Bus Station located at 1031 Gurnee Avenue and the place where the bus was firebombed about six miles outside of the town on State Route 202, two sites where the Freedom Riders were attacked by segregationist mobs.

Freedom Riders - route

Through the media the nation and the world witnessed the violence. Images, like that of a firebombed bus burning outside Anniston, Alabama, shocked the American public and created political pressure, which forced the Federal Government to take steps to ban segregation in interstate bus travel.

Although only thirteen Freedom Riders started the journey they inspired hundreds of others to join their cause. In the end there were over 400 Freedom Riders. They succeeded in pressing the federal government to act. On May 29, 1961, Attorney General Robert F. Kennedy petitioned the Interstate Commerce Commission (ICC) to issue regulations banning segregation, and the ICC subsequently decreed that by November 1, 1961, bus carriers and terminals serving interstate travel had to be integrated.

The Freedom Rides and Freedom Riders made substantial gains in the fight for equal access to public accommodations. Federal orders to remove Jim Crow signs on interstate facilities did not change social mores or political institutions overnight, but the Freedom Riders nonetheless struck a powerful blow to racial segregation
.
There are several sites associated with Freedom Riders National Monument.

Freddom Riders
Chamber of Commerce
Visitor Center - CLOSED
Freedom Riders
Greyhound Bus Station
NPS Visitor Center
Under Construction

Visitor Center (1330 Quintard Avenue) actually the Chamber of Commerce building – closed on Sunday






    Freedom Riders - Mural and educational panels on building adjacent to Bus Station (right)
  • Greyhound Bus Station (1031 Gurnee Avenue) On Sunday, May 14, 1961, a group of segregationists, including members of the Ku Klux Klan, attacked the bus carrying African American and white Freedom Riders. The mob threw rocks, broke windows, and slashed the tires of the bus. Following police intervention the bus was able to depart for Birmingham, with the mob in pursuit. The former bus station is not currently open to the public. Today, the side of the adjacent building that borders the bus station’s driveway features a mural and educational panels about the events of May 14, 1961.
Freedom Riders
Greyhound Bus Burning
Freedom Riders
Bus Burning Site
  • Bus Burning Site (Old Birmingham Highway/State Route 202) At this site, about six
    miles outside Anniston, the slashed tires of the
    Greyhound bus gave out and the driver was forced to pull over. The segregationist mob continued its attack, and someone eventually threw a bundle of flaming rags into the bus that exploded seconds later. Joseph “Little Joe” Postiglione, a freelance photographer, captured the scene. Little Joe’s photographs of the burning bus—which appeared in hundreds of newspapers on Monday morning—became iconic images of the civil rights movement. An Alabama Historical Marker identifies the site of the bus burning. There is no marker. (near the intersection of Old Birmingham Highway and Barkwood Dr., Anniston, AL 36201).
Anniston Civil Rights and Heritage Trail
The Greyhound Bus Station is part of the Anniston Civil Rights and Heritage Trail, which includes nine sites associated with the struggle for civil rights in Anniston. A self guided driving tour is available online at: annistoncivilrightstrail.org (Please note that website is only accessible with a mobile device). Sites on the Anniston Civil Rights and Heritage Trail, outside the monument, which are associated with the 1961 Freedom Rides include:

  • Anniston Memorial Hospital (400 East 10th Street) With great trouble the Freedom
    Anniston Memorial Hospital
    I'm sure its much larger today
     than it was in 1961
    Riders made their way to the Anniston hospital, which provided little in the way of treatment, and where they found themselves once again under siege by a white mob. Their torment eventually ended when deacons dispatched by Reverend Fred Shuttlesworth of Birmingham’s Bethel Baptist Church, rescued them and drove them to Birmingham. The hospital is part of the Anniston Civil Rights and Heritage Trail and is supposedly marked with a sign.  I didn’t locate the sign.
Freedom Riders
1018 Noble St
  • Trailways Station (1018 Noble St.) At this station, a second group of Freedom Riders stopped before departing for Birmingham. During their brief stop, a group of white men boarded and physically forced the Freedom Riders to segregate. The segregationists harassed the Freedom Riders throughout the two-hour ride to Birmingham. In Birmingham, the Freedom Riders were attacked by a mob of segregationists. The former Trailways Station also features a mural and educational panels . I didn’t locate any.murals and the address didn't look like a bus station.



4?? MILL SPRINGS BATTLEFIELD NATIONAL MONUMENT, Nancy, KY

NOT YET AN OFFICIAL NATIONAL MONUMENT i.e. part of the National Park Service. 

This is my third visit to the battlefield site.  A much nicer museum and Visitor Center than Camp Nelson National Monument.. 

On March 12, 2019, President Trump signed into law the Natural Resources Management Act that recognizes Camp Nelson in Jessamine County and Mill Springs Battlefield in Pulaski County as National MonumentsCamp Nelson falls under the National Park Service, Mill Springs is pending acquisition of land – sounds like an excuse – politics seems like a better answer  .

BACKGROUND
Mill Springs - Visitor Center
adjacent to the National Cemetery (background)
On January 19, 1862 Confederate and Union forces clashed in the Battle of Mill Springs. 

Initially, a sensation in newspapers North and South, the battle was largely forgotten, overshadowed by the bloody Battle of Shiloh in April 6-7, 1862. .

The battle remained forgotten and the grave unkempt until the 1970’s when local efforts were made to preserve the battlefield.  Due to lack of funds, the efforts were unsuccessful.  In 1992 the National Park Service placed Mill Springs on the list of the 25 most endangered battlefields. The Mill Springs Battlefield Association was formed in June of 1992 with the purpose of preserving and interpreting the original battlefield.
  
The Mill Springs Battlefield Association has a Visitor Center open 6 days each week and on Sundays from 1-4 pm.  The Association has developed a 10 stop driving tour.


BATTLE OF MILL SPRINGS
Just after midnight on January 19, 1862, 4,000 Confederate troops at Beech Grove started a nine-mile slog towards a Union army camped at Logan's Cross Roads

The South had decided to attack the Union Army in order to protect the defensive line it had set up across southern Kentucky. Maj. Gen. George B. Crittenden, who commanded the Confederate Army in this part of the country, had learned that Federal forces under Maj. Gen. George Thomas were coming together at Logan's Cross Roads.

After six hours of marching in the dark, the Confederate troops encountered Federal pickets and the Battle of Mill Springs began. For the next four hours fighting ranged across hilly farmland that still retained many patches of woods. Ravines cut across the battlefield, impeding the cavalry and artillery of both sides.

At the start of fighting, the Southern troops drove their opponents back. After about an hour, however, the battle began to stabilize. More Union forces arrived, It was foggy and raining.

The Confederates, who used an old type of rifle that needed a spark to ignite its black powder, which lay exposed in an open pan. "The rain was descending in torrents and our flint lock muskets were in bad condition; not one in three would fire," wrote one Southern soldier. "We...did the best we could with our old flint locks. Mine went off once during the action, and although I wiped the 'pan' and primed a dozen times it would do so no more."

Mill Springs - sketch of Gneral Zollicoffer's death
It was in this confusion that Confederate 
 General Zollicoffer rode up to the 19th Tennessee CSA, who held the Confederate center. He ordered them to cease fire, as he was convinced that they were shooting at other Southern units. Zollicoffer  then advanced toward the unit being fired on and began speaking with another officer, whom he ordered also to cease fire. Neither recognized the other's face, and both men wore rubberized canvas raincoats that made it impossible to see a uniform. The other officer had turned away to follow his orders when one of Zollicoffer's aides rode up and shouted for the General to get away--these were the enemy's troops! Zollicoffer had been mistaken: the 19th Tennessee had been firing at the 4th Kentucky US, who still stood close enough to hear the warning. They opened fire, and Zollicoffer and his aide were killed instantly.

Even after Zollicoffer's death, fighting continued for at least two more hours. The Confederates mounted one more significant attack, in which they advanced but were unable to break the Union lines. Then the tide of the battle turned against the Confederates, particularly after the 9th Ohio made one of the first and most effective bayonet charges of the Civil War. They broke the Confederate left and caused the entire army to retreat in confusion. The Federal forces pursued, but rear guard action by some Southern units slowed the Union enough to allow the Confederates to reach their fortified camps, nine miles to the rear, as night fell.

During the night, as the Federals prepared to attack the camp at dawn, the beaten Confederates retreated hastily across the Cumberland River. When the Union army approached in the morning, they found their opponents were gone, having abandoned their artillery, wagons, horses, food, and most of their personal possessions

The Union had its first significant victory of the Civil War as 150 Confederates and 50 Union soldiers lay dead on the field.  The South lost more than men at the Battle of Mill Springs. The defeat caused their defense line to collapse in eastern Kentucky, leaving the region itself under Federal control and eastern Tennessee open to invasion. The subsequent losses of Forts Henry and Donelson, both just over the border into Tennessee, forced all Confederate forces to retreat out of the state. Though the South would try to retake Kentucky later in 1862, the failure of this effort meant that the state remained firmly in control of the Union for the rest of the Civil War.

Green Bay 8 vs San Francisco 27 - started 8:20 pm I didn’t watch the game – based on the score, the Packers didn’t show up for the game – they stayed in Green Bay again

NOVEMBER 25, 2019 Monday
WEATHER: 32  at 5 am partly cloudy in Danville;  52 and clear at noon in Lexington; 61and clear in Perryville at 3:15 pm.
SUNRISE 0729 EST      SUNSET 1723 EST Danville

TRAVEL:  Hampton Inn (Danville, KY) to Richmond Battlefield Park (Richmond, KY) to Town Branch Distillery (Lexington, KY) to Perryville Battlefield (Perryville, KY).

HAMPTON INN – Danville, KY  -  much friendlier reception than the Home2 Suites in Oxford, AL.

RICHMOND BATTLEFIELD PARK.   Battlefield Park, located at 1546 Battlefield Memorial Highway, encompasses part of the Civil War battlefield  in Madison County.  The center point of the park is the 1824 Pleasant View home, which served as a hospital after the battle.  The home is currently closed for renovations.  
The park features a picnic area, restrooms, and 2.5 miles of paved walking trails lined with interpretative signs about the battle. 

In Maj. Gen. Kirby Smith’s 1862 Confederate offensive into Kentucky, Brig. Gen. Patrick R. Cleburne led the advance with Col. John S. Scott’s cavalry out in front. The Rebel cavalry, while moving north from Big Hill on the road to Richmond, Kentucky, encountered Union troopers on August 29th and began skirmishing. After noon, Union artillery and infantry joined the fray, forcing the Confederate cavalry to retreat to Big Hill. At that time, Brig. Gen. Mahlon D. Manson, who commanded Union forces in the area, ordered a brigade to march to Rogersville, toward the Rebels. Fighting for the day stopped after pursuing Union forces briefly skirmished with Cleburne’s men in late afternoon. That night, Manson informed his superior, Maj. Gen. William Nelson, of his situation, and Nelson ordered another brigade to be ready to march in support, when required. Kirby Smith ordered Cleburne to attack in the morning and promised to hurry reinforcements. Cleburne started early, marching north, passed through Kinston, dispersed Union skirmishers, and approached Manson’s battle line near Zion Church. As the day progressed additional troops joined both sides. Following an artillery duel, the battle began, and after a concerted Rebel attack on the Union right, the Yankees gave way. Retreating into Rogersville, the Yankees made another futile stand at their old bivouac. By now, Smith and Nelson had arrived and taken command of their respective armies. Nelson rallied some troops in the cemetery outside Richmond, but they were routed. Nelson and some men escaped but the Rebels captured approximately 4,000 Yankees. The way north was open.

TOWN BRANCH DISTILLERY & LEXINGTON BREWING COMPANY – I took the tour – cost $12 but half price for veterans.
Lexington Brewing & Distilling Co. was founded in 1999 by Irish entrepreneur Pearse Lyons, founder of Alltech. Alltech is a privately owned company,  Headquartered in Lexington, Kentucky, Alltech has developed a strong global presence in 128 countries. It also has 31 production facilities strategically located throughout the world.  Alltech is one of the industry leaders in the animal feed industry. The Lexington Brewing & Distilling Co. represents about 5% of Alltech’s multi-billion dollar annual sales.
Its Kentucky Bourbon Barrel Ale® has grown to become the brewery’s flagship brew, capitalizing on the brewery’s proximity to fresh Kentucky bourbon barrels. Today, the Lexington Brewing Co. family of brews — Kentucky Irish Red Ale, Kentucky Kölsch®, Kentucky Bourbon Barrel Ale®, Kentucky Coffee Barrel Stout™, Kentucky IPA™ and a series of unique barrel-aged seasonals — has collected numerous awards. In 2012, the company became part of the world-renowned Kentucky Bourbon Trail® experience with the opening of its Town Branch Distillery, which crafts Town Branch® Bourbon, Town Branch® Rye, Town Branch® Malt, Pearse Lyons Reserve® malt whiskey and Bluegrass Sundown® bourbon-infused coffee liqueur.

This was a well spent hour plus tour with testing.  Perhaps the best I’ve gone through on the Kentucky Bourbon Trail.  Some very distinct flavors. The cream ale did taste like cream soda and the coffe barrel stout was like a morning wake-up or evening after dinner..  I liked the Kolsch the best.  The Town Branch bourbon or Irish whiskies were smoothest.

PERRYVILLE BATTLEFIELD PARK – well over a dozen days spent on this battlefield.  I first ‘discovered’ this battlefield on a return trip from Shiloh in the Spring of 2003.  It was much smaller then.  The Civil War Preservation Trust has added much land to the park since then. Undoubtedly, the most undisturbed ‘major’ battlefield of the Civil War and yet not a part of the National Park system.

It’s November and the hours of the Visitor Center are cut-back i.e. it was not open today. I have’t been here in several years – it looked different.  Yes, a house is gone – more property acquired – but it just didn’t feel right.  My purpose was to visit the artillery battery sites – I just didn’t have the ambition to walk to them all – did what I could by car.

The Battle of Perryville was fought on October 8, 1862, in the Chaplin Hills west of Perryville, Kentucky, as the culmination of the Confederate Heartland Offensive during the American Civil War.

On October 7, 1862, Maj. Gen. Don Carlos Buell's Army of the Ohio, in pursuit of Gen Braxton Bragg’s Army of Mississippi, approached the crossroads town of Perryville, Kentucky. Union forces skirmished with Confederates on the Springfield Pike before heavy fighting began on Peters Hill. The next day, fighting continued as a Union division advanced up the pike. After noon, a Confederate division struck the Union left flank and forced it to fall back. When more Confederates joined the fray, the Union line made a stubborn stand, counterattacked, but finally retreated. Reinforced on their left, Union troops stabilized their line and the Confederate attack sputtered to a halt. Later, three Confederate regiments assaulted a Union division on the Springfield Pike but were repulsed and fell back into Perryville. Bragg, short of men and supplies, withdrew during the night. The battle was a Confederate tactical victory, but Bragg’s retreat effectively ended the campaign.


NOVEMBER 26, 2019 TUESDAY

WEATHER:  

SUNRISE 0xxx SUNSET xxx

TRAVEL:  Danville, KY to Burlington, WI

HOME A DAY EARLIER THAN PLANNED

 

ADDED JANUARY 2021

There will most likely be a 2020/2021 combined post/blook, however, when again recounting the visits to the National Parks I noticed an error when comparing my EXCEL spreadsheet count to the on-line National Park Travelers Club count.

 

First I noticed that the National Park Travelers Club count indicated that I had visited 413 of 423 sites run by the National Park Service.  My final EXCEL spreadsheet Trip #347-414 2017-19 Drf Rv/AK indicated that I had visited 413

I confirmed that I had not yet visited:

Blackstone River Valley NHP

Governor’s Island NM

Stonewall NM

Kathqdin Woods and Water NM

Aniachak NM

Aniachak NPres

Mill Springs NM

Ste. Genevieve NM

The 413 + the 8 that I had not visited  was short by 2.  I had to determine which 2 I had missed.

A review of the numbered sites indicated that I had counted but forgotten #159 on the EXCEL file named Trip #1-159 EOYNational Tour.

Additionally, the review indicated that I had forgotten to count Tule Lake National Monument which I visited August 13, 2017.  This accounted for one of the missing sites in my spreadsheet count.

A more thorough review indicated that New River Gorge NR which I visited became New River Gorge National Park and Preserve on January 20, 2020.  This accounted for the other uncounted site visit on my spreadsheet.

I have no plans of going back to Tule Lake or New Gorge just to get a Passport Stamps.  As far as I’m concerned I visited them . . .

Just a side noted I have the Passport stamps for Aniachak NM & PRES in Alaska from its designated Visitor Center in King Salmon, AK but could not find a day when the weather was good enough to fly from King Salmon to Aniachak. So I never actually visited there.

Rather than go back and renumber all the visited sites I visited:

New River Gorge National Preserve became #159 and

Tule Lake National Monument became #414.

 

#159 New River Gorge National Preserve see #214 May 25, 2016.

#414 Tule Lake National Monument see August 13, 2019

 

 

214 & 159  NEW RIVER GORGE National Park & Preserve

Nothing changed here only a designation . . . . .

NPS Photo - New River Gorge National Park & Preserve

News Release Date: January 20, 2021

Contact: Eve West, 304-719-6364

Glen Jean, WV - Congress has redesignated New River Gorge National River as New River Gorge National Park and Preserve. This new name highlights the park’s spectacular features and other national park qualities as well as its traditional recreational opportunities. The new law also allows for the expansion of this natural and recreational treasure. 

“I am thrilled that this designation will raise awareness of the great natural resources in my home state and the many opportunities available for outdoor recreation and exploration,” said Margaret Everson, Counselor to the Secretary, exercising the delegated authority of the National Park Service Director. “My love of conservation and the outdoors stems from lifelong experiences hiking, fishing, hunting and camping in West Virginia. Today’s announcement will inspire more people to discover New River Gorge and enjoy the benefits of time spent in nature.”

Legislation to redesignate this unit of the National Park System was spearheaded by U.S. Senator Joseph Manchin (D-WV), U.S. Senator Shelley Moore Capito (R-WV), and U.S. Representative Carol Miller (R-WV) and included in the Consolidated Appropriations Act for Fiscal 2021, enacted in December. The name change was supported by the State of West Virginia Governor's office, county and municipal governments, the tourism industry and local communities.

The New River Gorge is one of West Virginia's most cherished playgrounds. The whitewater rafting, hunting, fishing, outdoor sports and natural beauty make it one of our most robust tourist attractions. This new designation will highlight West Virginia’s unparalleled beauty and resources thereby increasing the international recognition. Over the last two years we have met with outdoorsmen, businesses and local leaders and other interested groups to ensure this designation will promote the beauty and rich history of the New River Gorge, while ensuring that the longstanding traditions of hunting and fishing are protected for generations to come, ”said Senator Manchin.

“The New River Gorge is such an important part of West Virginia and a real source of pride in our state. I am thrilled my legislation redesignating the National River as a National Park and Preserve was included in the legislative package that became law at the end of last year. Redesignation of the National River to a National Park and Preserve will shine a brighter light on West Virginia and all that it has to offer, and provide another catalyst for our tourism industry and local businesses. I’m grateful to all of the West Virginians—sportsmen, business owners, and constituents—for their feedback and involvement during this entire process. Throughout all of these discussions, it has become clear that this redesignation would bring enormous benefits to the region and those who call it home. As West Virginians, we all know that the New River Gorge is perhaps the best-known landmark in West Virginia because of its breathtaking natural beauty and elements of unique Appalachian history and culture. This designation will allow more people to share in the wild and wonderful adventure West Virginians take so much pride in, and I know it will be treasured and enjoyed for generations to come, ”said Senator Capito.

“I am honored to help redesignate the New River Gorge as a National Park and Preserve, ” Representative Miller.“ The New River Gorge is home to all West Virginia has to offer - our beauty, small businesses, and tourism opportunities. This redesignation is a crucial step in reinvigorating our economy. It will preserve and protect the New River Gorge for generations to come and make our state an even better place to live, work, and raise a family.”

A rugged, whitewater river flowing northward through deep canyons, the New River is among the oldest rivers on the continent. The national park and preserve includes more than 70,000 acres of land along the river which showcase the cultural and natural history of the area.

New River Bridge - NPS Photo


“We feel fortunate to play a role in preserving for future generations some of the most significant natural and cultural resources in our country,” said Lizzie Watts, Superintendent of the park. “We appreciate all that the community has done in support of these efforts.

The new law also expands the abundance of available recreational opportunities. Approximately 90 percent of the land is in the national preserve which permits hunting, a traditional use of the area, including 368 acres in the formerly off-limits Grandview area. The law also allows for the possibility of purchasing an additional 3,700 acres of land to add to the preserve in the future.

The 53-mile stretch of the New River between Bluestone and Hawk's Nest Dams became a unit of the National Park System in November 1978. The park is administered together with the Gauley River National Recreation Area and Bluestone National Scenic River which were both established in 1988. The combined sites span five counties in southern West Virginia: Fayette, Nicholas, Raleigh, Summers and Mercer attract more than one million visitors annually. In 2019, park visitors spent more than $60 million in nearby communities, which supported 846 jobs and had a cumulative benefit to local economies of $70 million.

 

 

414 TULE LAKE National Monument

Visited August 13, 2018.  I was unable to locate any Visitor Center – I do not have a Passport Stamp.  The politics of redesignation . . . .

The Tule Lake National Monument in Modoc and Siskiyou counties in California, consists primarily of the site of the Tule Lake War Relocation Center, one of ten concentration camps constructed in 1942 by the United States government to incarcerate Japanese Americans forcibly removed from their homes on the West Coast. They totaled nearly 120,000 people, more than two-thirds of whom were United States citizens.

After a period of use, this facility was renamed the Tule Lake Segregation Center in 1943, and used as a maximum security, segregation camp to separate and hold those prisoners considered disloyal or disruptive to the operations of other camps. Inmates from other camps were sent here to segregate them from the general population. Draft resisters and others who protested the injustices of the camps, including by their answers on the loyalty questionnaire, were sent here. At its peak, Tule Lake Segregation Center (with 18,700 inmates) was the largest of the ten camps and the most controversial.  29,840 people were held there over the four years it was open.


Tule Lake Segregation Center - NPS Photo

After the war it became a holding area for Japanese Americans slated for deportation or expatriation to Japan, including some who had renounced US citizenship under duress. Many joined a class action suit because of civil rights abuses; many gained the chance to stay in the United States through court hearings but did not regain their citizenship due to opposition by the Department of Justice. The camp was not closed until March 20, 1946, months after the end of the war. Twenty years later, members of the class action suit gained restoration of US citizenship through court rulings.

Tule Lake Barracks & Tower
California later designated this Tule Lake camp site as a California Historical Landmark and in 2006, it was ranked as a National Historic Landmark.  In December 2008, the Tule Lake Unit was designated by President George W. Bush as one of nine sites—the only one in the contiguous 48 states—to be part of the new World War II Valor in the Pacific National Monument, marking areas of major events during the war.  In addition to remains of the concentration camp, this unit includes Tulelake camp, also used during the war; as well as the rock formation known as the Peninsula/Castle Rock.  The John D. Dingell, Jr. Conservation, Management, and Recreation Act, signed March 12, 2019, split up the three units of the monument, creating a new Tule Lake National Monument.

The Tule Lake Unit currently used the Fairgrounds Museum as its temporary visitor center. This shared visitor center is staffed by Rangers seven days a week from Memorial Day weekend - Labor Day from 8:30am - 5:00pm. From Labor Day - Memorial Day the visitor center is not staffed by Rangers, but you may view the exhibits and pick up maps and brochures Monday - Friday from 9:30 a.m to 4:30 p.m. or when fair staff is there.o help 






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